Somewhere out there

New Blog

2011-02-14T08:05:00.001-08:00

http://machavok.wordpress.com

New Blog

2011-02-11T22:23:00.000-08:00

Hey everyone, I've decided to move my blog to a more functional site/design. Here's the new address:

http://machavok.wordpress.com/

Look forward to hearin' your feedback over at the "new location"

Thanks for following.

The strongest Bull Fighter

2011-02-10T22:56:00.001-08:00

This photo was taken by Boone Speed

My wife expressed a huge sigh of relief today when I walked into her flower shop and told her that I “sent”. After 11 times of coming home, bummed out, sometimes pissed off, on the 12th time, today, I sang a different tune.
4 years ago I stared at what I thought was going to be the perfect line in the Bull River Canyon. But 4 years ago I had not the skill to develop neither this “line” nor the ability to tame such a beast. Thus, the beast remained asleep, waiting for the right time to be woken.

Something inside me changed this year…something grew stronger, went deeper–it was as if I finally realized what I had to do to be a better/stronger climber. I knew that it would take more commitment, more sacrifice, that it would force me to dig deeper then ever before. There was to be no hesitation to this newly formed dedication. I needed to stand steadfast, taking any punches that were thrown, and if hit, if knocked down…I would need to get back up and start fighting back.

In early December I found myself standing beneath a section of the Bull River Canyon wall. As I stared up at this magnificent looking fragment I saw something different. This time I could see the route. It was as if someone painted a white line from bottom to top, guiding my eyes through the uniqueness of what was to come. With great excitement and a somewhat sleepless night, the very next day I showed up with my paintbrush and paint, ready to create my long awaited masterpiece on a beautiful blank canvas.

Three days straight hanging from a rope, getting soaked by the near waterfall, contemplating my sanity. What the heck was I doing? Why was I doing this again? Bolt by bolt, slowly I made my way through “the line”, hoping that what I was doing was in conjunction with the vision. I didn’t want to mess up anything, but only to create a route that would challenge those who were willing to rise to the occasion.
Over the course of the last couple of months I just couldn’t seem to nail down enough time to spend on my new route. Whether it was due to travel, the river flooding, convincing people to climb/belay, there always seemed to be something hindering any real dedicated/consistent time in pursuit of sending this project. It actually began to eat away at me. I was trying to link sections of the route together but was having no luck with any sort of promise in sending. It wasn’t until about a week ago that I finally decided that enough was enough. If I was going to have a shot at this route, I needed to focus on it. So, I did my best to clear whatever schedule I had set forth and went at this thing full force.

My last solid attempt at this route I had actually surpassed the difficult sections leaving only a few moves to the chains. It was near sent…until my pic broke a small section of a hold putting me into “thin air”. I was speechless for at least 5 minutes. I had fallen just shy of the end. I kept replaying the scenario over and over in my head. Why, why did that happen? And, like anything, after my emotions settled…I realized that my tool placement wasn’t sufficient enough. I was pumped upon reaching this hold and didn’t place my tool with precision. I was sloppy and inattentive to the meticulous move required. However, despite the negativity rapidly running through my head, I knew that I needed to remain positive if I were to have any chance with sending. Yes, I fell, just shy of the chains, but…I also had just crushed the hardest parts of the route…which had never happened before. My head was now back in action.

As I looked over I found myself approaching my recent high point on the route. Remembering what had happened last time, I moved my tool with exactness into the hold I had broken out of previously. Only this time, my pic was locked in. There was no falling with this attempt…only sending. And sending time it was. Carefully working my way up the last dagger of ice I reached the ledge and whilst screaming aloud, I clipped the chains. It was over. The beast was awoken, and then tamed with authority. It took four years for this vision to come to fruition…but like when I stared up at this “perfect line” four years ago, deep down, something told me to just be patient…that it was to only be a matter of time.

Thanks go out to those who helped along the way (and to my patient wife for putting up with me through all of it).

Around the world in 21 days

2011-02-07T12:27:00.000-08:00

Packing your bags for 21 days is no easy task. To make matters worse, I typically pack as though I’m leaving for 6 months. And what doesn’t help–you’re only allowed, usually, one bag…maybe two to take on the plane. Thus I face the same dilemma every time I leave on a trip–what to bring and what not to bring. Well, after several attempts, packing and unpacking, I finally managed to get the zippers zipped up on my overly stuffed duffle bag; I was ready to travel around the world (it’s amazing how much stuff you can fit into a “carry on” aka my 35L backpack-ha!).

Traveling around the world, experiencing many different cultures, it’s easily the most superlative adventure I’ve embarked on. Don’t get me wrong, there were certainly aspects to this adventure that challenged my patience and well being, but like with any adventure you simply roll with the punches and keep on truckin’ (even when your bus driver falls asleep at the wheel, whilst on a crazy highway in South Korea, and collides with another moving vehicle–this actually happened!).

As a climber, whether you like it or not, at times you’re faced with challenges that can push your every mental and physical ability. If for fun or in front of a screaming crowd at a competition, it’s in such times that reveal what you’re capable of and perhaps where your limitations are (for the moment).

For the greater part of January I traveled over seas to South Korea, Italy, France, and Switzerland. These destinations were in place for the 2011 World cups of ice/mixed climbing. I had been preparing for several months prior to these pre-destined dates and felt more ready then ever to compete–representing Canada.

With any competition, aside from the actual competing part, you’re typically confronted with the mental game. This game is not for the faint of heart. Your mind has the ability to wander, leading you astray, and you need to have the tactics to centralize your focus on the task at hand. Part of competing, or climbing in general, is being mentally tough. You can’t get these “guns” by pumping iron. As I have learned, this kind of toughness takes time, experience, mileage, and a lot of “humble pie”.

Competing at the world cup of ice/mixed climbing is very different then your typical day outside pulling on tools. Man made structures that look like alien space ships, sculpted hanging barrels of ice, fiberglass/concrete holds, wooden panels to kick into, isolation rooms, and thousands of people cheering. The style is like nothing else, and getting accustomed takes time and patience…and a will to want to be there. Learning the ins and outs of this nature comes only with dedication, focus and persistence.

At the two events that I participated in, my results on paper weren’t as good as I had hoped. However, alternatively my personal climbing performance had huge improvement from my first bout last year. With anything new, you need to take in everything possible to further your experience, so that you can come back more so ready then before. Last year my climbing was too slow, and I was resting too much. In world cup competitions, you have 6 minutes to climb a long way. Essentially you need to get on your horse and ride top speed…without stopping. Well, despite a bit of miss-fortune, I still climbed a lot faster and stronger then ever before. Those are two good things that in the grand scheme of things kept me positive, and yet still motivated me for more. Already I’m thinking about next year’s competitions and what to prepare for in order to further improve my climbing at the world cup level.

Apart from the competition side of things; the travel, seeing new places, skiing in Chamonix, sleeping on floors (South Korean Culture), meeting so many amazing people, climbing at some of the coolest mixed/dry-tooling crags in the world, this “around the world in 21 days” adventure had everything and more packed into it, making it an adventure that will forever be remembered. I’m grateful to all those who supported me, so that I was able to voyage on this journey of a lifetime.

The strongest Bull fighter

2011-02-06T21:32:00.001-08:00

The Bull River Canyon sits itself 45 minutes from my house, and over the last four years has been developed into a mixed climbing destination. There are a lot of ice routes nestled in this canyon, but as of lately, this little gem has created a bit of hype.

For four years i stared at a particular area of the bull river. It was different from the rest of the canyon. This huge, polished, overhanging monster with a distinct seem that wove itself aprox. 110ft upwards, it stared back at me, as if we both knew what needed to get done. But for the past few years, I didn't have the confidence in a) putting in the bolts for the "right line", and b) having the ability to climb it. I knew that this line was going to be special, but i also knew that i needed to be patient with it, to wait for the right time.

2 months ago, standing below the bridge, 110 ft down from civilization...i stared at my new route. It took 3 straight days of bolting (thanks to Jesse for helpin' me finish). It was physically taxing...like i had never experienced. Hangin' upside down, drillin' with one hand, getting absolutely soaked by the raging water fall 20ft away...it was intense. But it was finished. The line i had stared at for years, it finally took it's place in the Bull River Canyon.

My first go on the route, like any route that pushes you, didn't go well. I flailed around like a turkey that just got it's head cut off. But that was ok, i knew that it was going to take time to sort through this thing. So, after about 6 or 7 goes, i figured out the beta for the first steep section (pretty darn overhanging for the starting 40ft) and was stoked on that. But really, out of all the hard parts of the route, that was the more manageable section. The traverse that comes next, that's the hard part of the route. You see, there aren't really any great rests until after all the hard stuff. From the moment you leave the ground, it's in your face for 11 draws worth.

After the first section, you start this heinous traverse that requires about 6-7 figure 4/9 combos...with no feet...on fairly thin ice. This section took a bit to figure out. Throughout the first few attempts at this section...I took some pretty wild falls. One fall in particular was a result of a 50lb block of ice ripping and hitting me in the face–breaking my nose. That sucked. Anyways, after figuring out the movement on the traverse i then sorted the upper section. This last part, about 35ft, consists of pretty easy climbing. Once through the traverse, you get onto a fairly thin dagger, throw pretty high for the next hold...and then work your way up an M8 to the chains. Just before the chains you actually have to pull through another dagger of ice, but manageable regardless.

The route turned out to be a lot harder and longer then i expected. I mean, i bolted it...but you never really know until you get on it. I've been on some hard routes before, but this...this one was really hard. It's technical, powerful, long, requiring a lot of endurance, and a good understanding of mixed climbing movement. It's in your face from the moment you leave the ground...and it doesn't let up for a long time.

Four days ago, after being gone for my "competition season" over in Europe, I was psyched to get back and get back on my route. It had been about a month since i was on it last...so needless to say i was chompin at the bit. Well, to my dismay, staring at the route, i could no longer reach the starting hold. The river, that freezes over, that we stand on, whilst climbing in the bull, had dropped 3ft. The ice shelf had receded so much to the point where the starting hold was too high. Luckily i found another hold lower down that worked out well enough to get going. But that wasn't the end of the changes. The "ice rime" formed by the spray of the waterfall had all melted off near the bottom. This "rime" was good because you could use it as foot holds. You see, because the rock is so polished...foot holds are scarce. Now, instead of the first few moves being "manageable", you needed to perform a few one arm lock offs to make certain moves work. At this point i was a bit concerned as parts of the route, near the beginning required harder movement. Which in turn also meant you needed more power endurance to get through this beast. However, after a couple of go's, working through the new start, i familiarized myself with the first section again, and was able to link it together, putting me where i left off last.

After a day of rest, I returned back to my route–a little more confident as i knew that the first section of the route was pretty dialed. My first attempt of the day I got through the first section...and then to my shock...i kept going. For the first time I was linking into the hardest part of the route. I was able to make 3 moves into the traverse and then fell. This was pretty exciting as that was huge progress. Taking about a 30min break I hoped back on this sucker and gave 'er another go. Again, cruizing the first section, i got into the traverse and began the "long trek" across. Shocked again, i passed my last high point...and quickly fell from being pumped out of my mind.

Making progress on my route was cool and all, but there was still a little part of me that was doubting my ability to actually get through this thing. There's just no letting up on the route and i wasn't sure i had what it took to pull it off.

Passing my last high point, trying to stay focused, trying to ignore from the raging pumped feeling in my arms, scrambling for the next hold...once again i fell off. My last attempt at the route, I thought that was a good go...but this attempt...this attempt brought a bit of hope. My mindset began to change a little. Suddenly...i began to believe. Suddenly I began to see the chains in my mind.

Move after move, on my second attempt of the day, i crushed the first section of the route. Without much hesitation, i cut my feet loose and began the powerful traverse. With the dagger of ice in sight, i was getting closer and closer. In my head...i was screaming, "yeah, you're so close...come on, you can do it". Pat, belaying me from below, was screaming the same things. I couldn't believe it...i was actually making it across the hardest part of the climb. Stabbing my foot out, i had actually made it to the dagger. So pumped, arms screaming...throwing for the next hold above...easy street in sight. It was just about there. I had done it...the hardest section of the route, everything that i doubted...i had just crushed. It was only a few moves of fairly easy climbing to reach the chains. Changing hands, in my rest position, suddenly i was flying through the air. My tool, in one of the bigger "sinker holds" on the route had blown out the hold and i was ripped off the route. Pat lowered me to the "Deck". We were both silent.

Climbing can be really hard sometimes. Not the actual climbing part, but everything that goes along with it. The pressures you put on yourself, the mental battles. It sounds like i'm whining, but seriously...it can be taxing at times. For the entire evening, and still 'til this moment, i keep thinking about what happened today. It was so close. Yet, it didn't happen. And hopefully, in a couple of days i'll go back and crush this thing. But it's hard. When a route pushes you, when it demands your every physical ability, and when you're that close to pushing back...wow...what a mind bender.

i was reading an article on Chris Sharma turning 30. He made a very valid point about climbing routes...and i thought it fit quite well with my rant:

Don’t you feel like on some climbs, though, that you’re trying to just get the job done? Does that still happen to you?

Oh, yeah. It totally happens. It’s a constant process. It’s like relearning the same things over and over again—kind of like every route. It’s hard to have that pure attitude. You know, you wanna send it, but that’s almost inhibiting you from just being yourself and climbing it like you know you can. When I climbed Realization, I was kind of feeling tired that day, and was like, well, whatever, I’ll give it a burn, just to remember the moves. And then you kind of trick yourself into not really caring about it, and then you’re free to just do it, I guess.

Anyways, that's all i have for now. Resting tomorrow. Then time to take ownership upon "El Matador", the strongest Bull fighter (the name of my route in the Bull River Canyon).

Stay tuned.

It's important to keep a positive perspective...

2011-01-26T11:07:00.000-08:00

This time around, I found a sense of comfort. Coming back to Saas Fee, Switzerland allowed for some breathing room. I knew this place, I’d been here before, and my comfort level was far greater this time.

Last year in Saas Fee, Switzerland I competed in my first ever World Cup Ice climbing competition. It was scary to say the least. I didn’t know how/what to prepare whether with the travel side of things or even the climbing side of things. This realm that I put myself in, I was just a baby…that had just been born into a very different world.

Marc Beverly and I, by this time, had traveled around the world together. It’s amazing how much easier travel can be when you’re doing it with someone you know. Cheers to that Marc. After driving for several hours from Chamonix, France we arrived (back) in Saas Fee, Switzerland. It was the last stop on our World Cup tour. Upon my arrival last year I was really unsettled and nervous…but not this year, this year was different. It was a familiar place to which, this time around, I knew how and what to prepare for.

Athletes that travel on the world cup circuit form a very unique bond. Despite the fact that it resembles what one might call, “A traveling circus”, there’s a definite connection. It’s been great, on this tour, being accepted into the family of “carnies”, as it certainly took the edge off in a place that I’m still very new at.
The athlete dinners, the pre-game shows if you will, are always fun to be a part of. You get to see friends, meet other athletes from around the world, discuss “future climbing plans”, and even pick up where you last left off in an ongoing “world cup tour ping pong game” (thanks to my good, Russian, friend–Pavel). It’s a time for all the athletes and organizers to enjoy a relaxed and calm evening “before the storm”. But despite all efforts made for a peaceful, composed, evening…everyone knows what lays ahead–Game Day.

Entering into isolation, along with all the other athletes, there was a sense of relief. Last year isolation was a dark, somewhat heated tent. This year, the organizers built a loft with shelves for gear and beds to chill out on. There was heat, food, water, and lots of RedBull. This definitely took the edge off.
In pretty much every event I’ve competed in, whenever there’s a draw for numbers (when your turn is to compete), it seems as though I always end up going near the bottom. Some people don’t mind this…and really…I guess it’s not all that bad…but when you’re stuck in isolation for 5hrs…it can certainly suck. At the athlete dinner this year I prayed that I would not draw a number that put me near the bottom. Well…to my shock…when I drew my number this year I drew 3. I couldn’t believe it. Prayer answered! Other athletes looked at me as though I were crazy, “you’re happy with going that early?” Heck yeah I was. I couldn’t believe it. No waiting, not panic attacks…out of the gates early. I was really stoked about this.

Being lead from isolation to where the climbing structure is, it feels like a lamb being lead to the slaughterhouse. It pretty much took every bit of mental toughness I had stored up to stay focused on this, what seemed like a 10 mile walk to the climb. As I sat on the seat, just around the corner from the main event, hearing all the cheering, hundreds of people projecting their enthusiasm…I awaited my name to be called into action.

As I lifted both feet off the ground, beginning my climb, the clock started to tick. Placing my tools as efficiently as possible, focusing on moving fast, but being concise with my placements, I pulled through the first few moves. Suddenly, it happened again. My tool popped. I couldn’t believe it. I was only 10ft off the ground. Noooooooo! Quickly I realized that it wasn’t over yet. If you fall before the first quick draw you’re allowed a second chance. The belayer fished my tool out of the ice above and so without a second thought I “got back on the horse”.
Move after move my climbing was flowing. There wasn’t much struggle at all with any of the sequences and I was climbing at a descent clip. Abruptly my name was called as time had run out. Once again it was over. As I was being lowered down I was confused to where I had made it on the route, and why it took me so long to get there, “Really, it took me 6 minutes to make it there?” It didn’t make a lot of sense. I felt as though I was moving faster (this year). I even watched several climbers after me, to whom looked a lot slower, yet still reaching the same point.

It wasn’t until about an hour later that it was brought to my attention that when you fall, and are rewarded a second attempt (like in my situation), the clock doesn’t stop. You see, I thought the clock was re-set back to 6 minutes but it wasn’t. I had actually exhausted two minutes out of my 6 in my first attempt at the route. At that moment I actually became pretty excited. I had just realized that it only took me 4 minutes to climb through ¾’s of the route. If I had my full 6 minutes, I would have had enough time to top out the route. This put a smile on my face.

Last year, at this world cup, I climbed at a very slow pace. It wasn’t good. Because the structure was pretty much the same this year, I was able to compare this year’s climb to last year’s (with speed, distance on route, etc.). Last year I made it just over half way…in 6 minutes. This year, I fell off the route early, re-composed myself and jumped back on my horse and road faster then I ever have before. Not only did I surpass how far I climbed last year, but I did it with (what could have been) 2 minutes to spare.

No, I didn’t go as far as I had wanted/expected to in the standings of this world cup, however still, much has been gained this time around. My goals for this year were to climb faster and stronger. Both of those goals were accomplished. That’s a gain. There is still much for me to learn in this realm, and I still need a lot of mileage in certain areas, but as “Rocky” put it, “it’s not about how hard you can punch…but how hard of a punch you can take…and still get back up.” (paraphrased).
This isn’t over yet. Game on.

Game Day

2011-01-20T23:34:00.000-08:00

It's game day. There are no words to describe the feeling, but perhaps could be related to sticking a fork in a plug socket. I can almost feel the electricity streaming through my body.

For some reason, to which i don't understand...but have faith in, I feel ready for whatever happens. Whether i clip the chains at the top of the route, or fall 10ft off the ground, it's ok. It's ok because i know that this moment does not define me, but only strengthens me. I know that i'm not the strongest...but some times...some times when the stars align just right, when God says, "I've got you, don't worry", it doesn't take the strongest "to go chains". It just takes a "once in a blue moon–magical moment". This time i'm going to take a pass at saying uncle. There will be no letting go, no resting, just climbing...and climbing fast.

Last night at the athlete dinner i drew #3. Since my arrival to Saas Fee, i was praying that i wouldn't be put near the bottom again. Waiting in isolation for hours can take a toll on your mental state. It's rough. And not only that, but by the time 60+ competitors have gone before you, the ice on the route is typically trashed, making it harder to climb. Well wouldn't you know it, as i drew out my number, the #3 came out...prayer answered. Fresh ice, no waiting–this is good.

I'm going to pack my bag now and get ready for the Mixed Climbing World Cup in Saas Fee Switzerland.

Game on.

Wine, Cheese, Chaos, and sick lines

2011-01-20T03:49:00.000-08:00

Because the World Cup in Italy was canceled Marc Beverly and I now had over a week to kill. We had heard that there was a smaller mixed climbing comp being put together by Jeff Mercier, in L'Argentière, the French Ecrins, France, so we figured France was to be our next destination on this wild adventure.

Going to Chamonix, France had always been a dream of mine, and as I stood in the middle of its beautiful town, staring at Mont Blanc, it was a surreal and amazing feeling, to actually be there…in the dream. But mere minutes had passed by since our arrival in Chamonix and we were off again–in and out.

Our friend Stephanie Maureau, when not guiding in Chamonix, based her “rest days” with her parents, close to the French Ecrins (Aux le Bains). Thankfully she invited Marc, Lukasz (photographer) and I to stay with her at her parents’ beautiful home on what seemed to me as the highlands of Scotland. Rolling hills surrounded by towering walls of rock, farmlands as far as the eyes could see. So picturesque that it belonged on a painting. Cheeses, wine, some sort of battery acid tasting alcohol called “Genepe” (like chewing on the bark of a pine tree), breads, chocolate…staying at Stephanie’s parent’s house-lets just say we were treated with true French hospitality.
Upon our arrival in L'Argentière, we met up with some familiar faces from the world cup climbing tour. Despite our tired/jetlagged bodies, we were all super fired up about the competition and what the day had for us. Unfortunately the high-energy excitement was quickly shut down when our eyes first set on the competition venue. It was total chaos. Jeff Mercier did his best to establish a pile of new routes in lieu of the comp, but he, amongst others, were in for a surprise when the Russian invasion showed up.

The venue for this competition was in a remote location. The size of the venue was small and awkward to navigate around. Trees, brush, roots, boulders, all based on a narrow path with a steep hillside only a couple of feet from the actual rock wall. You could see the concern in everyone’s faces. A few people–maybe 10-15…yes, that would have been ok. But because of the influx of people there were just too many in way too small of a place.

The competition was straight up dangerous. The newly bolted crag had a lot of loose rock causing a constant stream of rock fall–putting everyone’s lives in danger. Some managed to pay close attention to this factor, while others simply didn’t care, scraping off whatever loose rock was in their way. Unfortunately the Russian team didn’t make this any easier. There was just no respect from them, which made things much worse, essentially ruining the day for everyone else. They were outrageously rude, with no respect to the rules of the competition, and had no concept of safety when it came to other climbers around them. It was scary and not worth it. Our “crew” attempted to climb, and we all climbed well, but at the end of the day, there really wasn’t a competition, but more a day of training/survival. It was unfortunate to how this “competition” went, with how the Russians treated everyone (aside from the likes of Alexi and Ludmila-who so graciously helped us to navigate around the other Russians), as it had the potential to be really fun. Side note-thank you again to Malcom and Lukasz for allowing Marc and I to stay in your hotel…again.

Staring up at this gigantic cave I didn’t have words to express my excitement. I was standing in the middle of the “L’Usine” cave, probably Europe’s top mixed climbing crag/cave. I had seen pictures before, but it wasn’t until I was actually there that I had realized how fantastic this place truly was–so massive. The previous day’s chaos had been totally forgotten. We no longer were complaining about the chaos of the Russians, but were hootin’ and hollerin’ with exhilaration on every route we climbed on. The climbing style was quite different but I felt as though I adapted quick enough to enjoy the big dynamic, committing moves of our climbing day. This place, I will indeed return to.

Followed by the ups and downs of our previous days of climbing, I found myself at the top of the The Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), a mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps. The cable car to the summit, the Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi, was built in 1955 and held the title of the world's highest cable car for about two decades. It still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, from 1,035 m to 3,842 m. I’ve seen a lot of mountain ranges in North America, but this…this was a whole new world. I couldn’t believe I was about to ski down this thing.

With the help of Stephanie and Marc, both mountain guides, we (Stephane, Marc, Lukasz, and I) navigated down the Vallee Blanche Glacier. Open bowls, scarey couloirs, over crevasses, powder…we skied it all. After 18000 vertical feet in only three runs, my legs were jello and I was psyched. I hadn’t skied in two years; what a re-entry.

Our last day in France put us at yet another world re-known dry tooling crag: The Zoo. The zoo is a huge overhanging cliff with loads of dry tooling routes; anywhere from D6 to D13 (“D” means Dry) with zoo animals marking each specific route. By this time in our trip, my body was totally gassed, and knowing that we had a world cup in three days… I mainly just monkeyed about on several routes, giving my arms a bit of a workout. Again, the movement involved a very dynamic style. No figure fours to get through the bigger moves…just unload and huck.

France was yet another experience that will forever be stored in my memory. Wine, cheese, bread, climbing, skiing, rolling farm hills, endless rock in every direction, tunnels longer then my home town, round-abouts, the Russians, great people, more ice then I’ve ever seen anywhere in my life, all of this, every aspect of this trip made it an opportunity of a life time.

Next stop–Mixed climbing World Cup in Saas Fe, Switzerland. Game on.

Italy in a day

2011-01-17T01:20:00.000-08:00

South Korea was a trip and a half. Culture, adventure, the world cup, the emotional roller coaster, the time change, the food, the people…simply an amazing experience. On to Italy we go.

All I could think about was getting to Italy. I really enjoyed my time in South Korea but I was ready for something new. There was just a few things to get through–a bus ride and two flights. Easy right? Well you’d think so but when your bus driver falls asleep at the wheel on the highway and then hits another vehicle…that puts a slight damper on things. Luckily the bus driver fled the scene and got us to the airport on time.

After 9hrs of flying, 3hrs in a Russian airport, another 4hrs of flying, a cab ride by a guy who claimed to be a cab driver (but I’m pretty sure he wasn’t), I finally hooked up with my buddy Marc. We were in Italy and both really excited. Unfortunately the Italy World Cup was canceled due to the accidental death of one of the event organizers. So that basically meant our time in Italy was freed up to do whatever.
Round about after round about we navigated for 6hrs through busy traffic and the countryside of Italy, seeking out the ever so famous “Scarpa Factory” in Asolo, Italy. The drive was longer then expected, but we made great time by holding 170km/hr pretty much the entire way.

Getting the opportunity to see how Scarpa footwear is made, down to every detail of applying the glue and riveting the eyelets, guided by one of the owners, it was an experience of a lifetime. Not only that, but where the Scarpa factory’s located–in Asolo, Italy, the town itself is mostly likely one of the most beautiful, unique towns I’ve ever walked through. Castles, gigantic homes dating back to who knows how long ago, cobble streets, café’s straight out of a foreign movie, all of it left images imprinted in my memory that will last a lifetime.
On to Chamonix, France.

2011-01-13T09:51:00.001-08:00

South Korea in 8 days

Day 1

Following 15hrs straight on a plane, too many movies, a serious numb butt, and lack of food, myself and fellow North American–Marc Beverly made it to South Korea. After getting our bags surprisingly quickly we thought we were off to a solid start. Well, that was short lived as our ride didn’t show up, leaving us somewhat stranded in a very foreign place. Luckily, thanks to Mr. Social Network, our friends that had arrived ahead of us left a message on facebook to where they were. At that point we gathered our stuff and headed in that very direction.

An hour had gone by and we were still weaving in and out of traffic through Seoul, South Korea. We still hadn’t arrived at our friends’ hotel and the meter in the cab was getting out of control. Just as the beads of sweat started to poor down our faces, the cab driver finally found the hotel. Our cab bill was $120. Ew. However, because it was over an hour drive we thought, “huh, seems expensive but I guess that’s how it is.” Well, later that night our friends Malcom and Lukasz filled us in on how cab drivers like to hustle foreigners (because they don’t know any better). So that was $120 wasted. Perfect.

Losing complete sense of what time it was and what day it was for that matter, all we could do was drop our bags and crash. It wasn’t the most ideal of situations–4 of us in a room that certainly didn’t accommodate 4 with beds, but we made it work and gave in to the “endless” day.

Day 2

Waking up at around 5am South Korea time, waiting as long as I could, I let out a quiet, “is anyone else awake?” Naturally everyone spoke up with a, “Yes, I’m up too.” The time change was certainly affecting all of us (being 15hrs ahead of our “local time” in North America). After stalling as long as possible Marc, Lukasz, Malcom, and myself got up and began our day of being tourists.

Walking through the streets of Seoul, South Korea, is like nothing I’ve ever experienced. Millions of people walking in every direction, scooters weaving in and out of pedestrians on sidewalks, cutting into traffic – nearly getting creamed with every merge, motorcycles carrying enough “cargo” to warrant a moving truck…so much to see, so overwhelming. Despite the initial foreign sentiment, our eyes, in sync, all caught the ever so reliable Star bucks sign-thus our next stop.

After enjoying a nice caramel macchiato from starbucks (the taste was just like home) the four of us ventured into this crazy market area. It was inside, but sort of outside…buildings connected by structural coverings, dark alleyways, tiny little stores with ceilings we all had to duck for. These little “streets” through-out the market were filled with vendors selling everything from dried up fish, pig snouts, weird looking meat (that we still can’t figure out what it was) to endless knock off brands of The North Face (The cool pace). You name it-it was being sold. What we couldn’t figure out is how so many little shops, selling so much “stuff” can make money and survive. Mind boggling.

Our plan in Seoul was to rent a car to make things a little more accessible. Well, after our tour through the street market, upon our arrival at the rental dealer we were told that we couldn’t drive, as we didn’t have an “international license”. Despite every attempt to convince the desk clerk it would be fine…we were shut down. On foot again, we all made our way back to the hotel, happy for the move into our newly upgraded room (because there was four of us now). All excited we opened the door to the “upgraded” room to find no beds. We thought, “so, is there a bedroom?” Nope. No room-just a big open space with no beds. This did not excite us. Despite this slight set back, we all hunkered down for the night, lying on blankets, side by side like in a can of sardines. It was “cozy”.

Day 3

Yet again, up way too early, our crew packed up the bags and headed to the International Youth Hostel to meet up with all the other athletes. Game plan: Hop on a bus and drive for 5hrs to “Cheong Song”, the world cup venue. On a side note-taxi drivers in South Korea are flippin’ crazy. I thought rally drivers were nuts…no contest-put any South Korean taxi driver in a rally race…with a taxicab…they’d win hands down.

I’ve never been a big fan of trips via buses. They’re uncomfortable-no leg room, and if you fall asleep it’s usually in some position that when you wake up it feels as though you’ve become paralyzed from the neck down. Although not thrilled about the bus ride, hangin’ with all the athletes from across the world was great. We didn’t get to see much on the bus (as the windows were frosted over) but one very unique thing was getting sprayed down at these random stations on the highway. These stations were not manned but guarded by mechanical dummies. These spray stations would wash all the vehicles to try and prevent any sort of disease from entering that particular area. Crazy.

Within 20mins of our destination the bus pulled over and dropped everyone off at a “local” restaurant. This restaurant had prepared a huge meal for all athletes and organizers. Naturally I was expecting North American food…nope, very very different food was presented before us. I’m not much for adventure when it comes to food…but I gave ‘er a good go. Needless to say, I didn’t eat much and remained pretty hungry (luckily I had a power bar in my pack that I could feast on). As we piled back onto the bus suddenly 2 F14’s jetted overhead. All of us sort of stood there, all thinking the same thing, “uh oh, that’s not good” (hence the “issue” going on between North and South Korea).

Pulling up to the athlete hotel in Cheong Song is something I’ll never forget. Stepping off the bus, instantly we were swarmed by a craze of media with cameras and clapping/cheering. Because this was the first Ice climbing world cup in Asia, it was a very big deal to the locals and abroad. Everyone was very keen to talk with us and take our pictures/film our entry. All the athletes, including myself, felt very welcomed. The energy was buzzing through everyone with anticipation for what was to come-the main event. We were all on the brink of making history-being a part of the first Ice/mixed world cup in asia.

In the evening, we (the athletes) were presented by an outstanding/breathtaking opening ceremony at the Cheong Song community centre. Cultural dancing, a parade of Korean children, each one holding a flag that represented one of the countries attending the world cup-speaches by the Alpine federation, the Mayor of Cheong Song, Korea, it was incredible. Each athlete being called by name, standing up to be introduced, all of us felt welcomed and honored.

Oh, and our “fancy” hotel still didn’t have any beds. Sigh, 3 more nights without a bed. However, our nice comfy hard floor was heated. There’s always a bright side.

Day 4

Game day. 4 months of preparing, mentally and physically. This was the first World cup of the circuit – Cheong Song, South Korea. Getting off the bus (from the hotel to the venue) we were all in awe over our first sight. This towering spire smeared with ice, guarding the 3D, space ship looking event structure. We didn’t get to look at long as all the athletes were escorted to isolation. But we all saw enough to send chills up our backs.

Isolation (where athletes are kept before competing) can be an intimidating place before a big event–athletes from all over the world, preparing the best way that they can, doing what they know. It’s a mental battle to not get sucked into the mentality of, “well maybe I should warm up that way”. No, it’s so important to stay focused, to rely on what you know, how you’ve trained and prepared. The second you fall into the likes of how someone else is warming up, so many things can lead to a downward spiral from there.

At my first world cup in 2010 (last year), being in isolation…I was a wreck. I didn’t know how to prepare, what to prepare, what to do. I didn’t warm up right, I didn’t eat right, I was stuck in isolation for hours. Well this year, it was different. I knew what I was going into-what to bring, a game plan of sorts. It also helped that I now knew a lot more people, so I could actually converse with others instead of sitting in a dark corner by myself.

“Gordon McArthur, you’re next”. Hearing those words naturally made my body swell. Suddenly my relaxed state was replaced with “holy crap”. It wasn’t 5 minutes from when they called my name to when I was walking up to the first asian mixed climbing world cup comp route. Standing beneath this behemoth of a structure…it felt like I was about to fly into outer space.

The clock started and I was on my way. I was pulling down hard, taking no rests, cruising through the first 5 or 6 moves. Things were feeling great. I was moving fast which was my #1 goal. I situated myself on this dangling log of ice, calculating my next move. Raising my tool up, extending as far as I could, seeing the next hold, suddenly I found myself falling. My tool had ripped through a “sinker” hold. The ice blew apart on the log and I fell. It shouldn’t have happened. These “drilled” pockets are supposed to be bomber. But my chosen pocket wasn’t. Faster then I could say “Noooooo” I was being lowered to the ground. It was over.

Part of competing is accepting whatever’s thrown at you. “Some days you’re a rockstar, and some days you’re a rock”-Wg. Everything was going right, until it all went wrong. Could it have gone differently? Of course. Could I have done differently? Of course. But, I needed to accept how it actually went and then try to re-group. I was heartbroken. All the travel, preparation, people watching, friends and family…I felt like I let people down. This was one hard pill to swallow. Thank goodness for friends with all their supporting words.

After the qualifiers we traveled back to our hotel-without skipping a beat I went straight to my room and crashed (on the floor).

Day 5

Waking up I was faced with a decision: Am I going to let what happened yesterday dictate the rest of this trip, or am I going to use this as another tool I’ve been given to build up my experience and go after the next world comps with further gained confidence? It took a bit but I decided to snap out of the poor me state of mind and be there for those who had qualified for the semi finals. So, off we went on the bus again to the venue, wearin’ lots of warm clothes in preparation to stick it out for the day, in the windy cold temps, cheering on the qualifiers.

Having the opportunity to witness some of the strongest climbers on the planet, being able to pay close attention to their skill, it allowed me to learn. What a treat that turned out to be. There’s so much to learn in this particular style of climbing/competing: how to sharpen your picks and crampons, what gloves to wear, dipping your hands in chalk before you put your gloves on, the movement whilst climbing…all of it…there all tools to grow and progress. And what became evident, it doesn’t all come over night…it comes with mileage, experience, and then it becomes only a matter of time.

When the dust had settled, there were only 8 left on each side-8 men and 8 women for the finals. My newfound attitude allowed me to enjoy this exceptional opportunity to watch the best of the best crank down on the wildest structure/route I’d ever seen. Move after move both men and women were pulling down, crushing moves I thought weren’t doable. The intensity alone was enough to keep my heart racing. On the men’s side it came down to the wire: both Marcus Bendler and Park Hee Young had reached the final hold but both weren’t able to clip the chains due to timing out. Essentially it was a tie…for the moment. On the women’s side, several were neck in neck with respectable high points, but only one was en route, cruising like it was childs play. Angelika Rainer was well in place for winning as her speed and elegent movement was foreshadowing a sure win.

Suddenly the crowd was in an uproar. Something had happened. The belayers out of nowhere were abruptly pulling Angelika off the route. She didn’t know what was happening so she tried to keep climbing…but with taught rope, she fell off. Judging by her actions she was less then happy, and that only elevated when she found out that the judges made a mistake by pulling her off.

There was a discrepancy over whether or not Angelika forgot to clip one of the quick draws en route. Now, if you do forget to clip one, and then clip the next one it’s a disqualification. Without getting into the nitty gritty of it, it turned out that Angelika didn’t forget and that the judges had made a mistake. And because of the mistake Angelika was awarded another attempt.

When you’re gearing up for a comp, preparing for your climb, all your energy is directed at that attempt. When you expend all that energy, throwing all your eggs into that one basket, being told to climb again…well…it would seem almost impossible. Angelika of course tried again, but half way up the route a hold broke. Once again she was being lowered. She was awarded another attempt but by that time she was freezing and exhausted. Angelika had just been robbed of what could have been (would have been) a world cup win.

Waiting with anticipation, the judges came out to announce the winner of the men’s lead final. Everyone knew that Marcus and Park Hee were so close at the end, so the hype to who won was creating a frenzy of excitement. “And the winner of the Men’s lead final is Marcuuuussssssss Bendleerrrrrrrrr”. Right away we rushed Marcus, congratulating him as he just won the first asian world cup of mixed climbing. It was out of this world. Being there, watching him climb, understanding his movement and decision making, and then being able to congratulate him in person. Opportunity of a life time.

Back at the hotel, during the athlete dinner, and after several beer “chugging bouts” with the Mayor of Cheong song, Korea, a bunch of the athletes and myself were able to converse about the entire comp and all that went on. You see, whether it’s about falling off early or being robbed of the win, or even falling off the first hold (which did happen by the way-and with one of the top in the world at that), shit happens. Some things are in control where as others aren’t. You take the good with the bad, the lucky with the unlucky and keep on trucking.

The last couple of days in Seoul

Getting back to the International Youth Hostel in Seoul was somewhat revitalizing. I think mostly because we finally had beds to sleep in. The food was still, well…let’s just say I think I’ve lost weight whilst being here, but I felt as though my mind set was somewhat re-grouped and re-focused. I also had a chance to finally see my girls through skype video chatting. Usually when I’m on a trip, by day 5 I’m missing my family. So, by day 7 I was startin’ to miss them a lot. Thank goodness for technology. It’s hard being away from them for this long. And I still have 2 weeks to go. I gotta say, it wouldn’t be possible…any of this, without the support of my amazing wife and wonderful baby girls, and whilst on the subject–my friends (especially those who help out with climbing/belaying), and of course my sponsors that provide me with so much of what’s needed to go after such a dream.

For the next couple of days Marc (my co-team North America member) and I were able to train at an indoor climbing gym which was super beneficial to us. One of our worries with being on this big trip was that we wouldn’t be able to train, and with lack of climbing/training-that could have cause and effect on our mental and physical states.
We found the climbing gym in Seoul, which was run by the Alpine Club of Korea. A subway and scary cab ride sat us on the front door step of the 02 Climbing gym. 02 you might wonder? Well, in the basement of this gym there just so happens to be a gigantic ice climbing gym, a big fridge if you will. Yup, 50ft high of ice climbing. It was wild. As if we were ice climbing inside a building.

After a few hours of dry tooling and ice climbing, the both of us felt satisfied with our work out–so we hopped back into a cab, then onto the subway, and back to the Youth Hostel. And to keep the energy going, instead of resting back at the hostel, we ventured out into what could be related to the middle of downtown Manhattan during rush hour. It was like a spider web of streets, glazed with people, lights, music, and food being greased up for anyone that walked by.

I couldn’t stop staring. Lights flashing, steam filling the air, people criss-crossing in every direction, Dunkin Donuts four stories high, packed to the nines, shops “shoe horned” into every last bit of space available. You could stand in one spot, not moving for hours, and not get bored. It was like being on another planet. And just as I was feeling totally out of place, foreign with everything my eyes gazed upon, I spotted a Baskin Robins to which I indulged in a big tasteful Strawberry Ice Cream Cone. Ahhhhh, a sweet touch of home.

On our last day in Seoul, Marc and I were able to take the morning and rest. We stayed in cruise control for pretty much the whole morning, catching up with emails, writing about our trip, and just simply relaxing. The afternoon however was a different story. Two of the Russians (that were also competing in the world cup), Alexi and Luda, invited us both out to train with them at the 02 climbing gym. Heck ya! What an opportunity.

Climbing with the Russians was amazing. They were able to analyze some of my climbing/movement and help me to improve on it. They enlightened both Marc and I on some training tips as well as general technique. Specifically, Alexi pointed out that I need to be more confident with bigger moves. I have the power, I just can’t hesitate when in explosive movement situations. That in it of itself got me totally fired up for the next competition on this adventure. Simple little tricks that make a world of difference, I can’t wait to implement them during the real deal.

It’s been 8 days of pure craziness–from world cup competition, to getting hussled by cab drivers, the ups and downs of the emotional roller coaster, the food, sleeping on floors, training with the Russians, hangin’ with friends, playing pingpong (defending my title from last year against the Russians-which by the way I’m still undefeated), meeting so many wonderful people, drinking “unknowing” medicines in hopes of curing colds, navigating through the wildest of markets, oh… and then of course getting into a car accident on the way to the airport (yeah, our bus driver fell asleep at the wheel and crashed into a car. Bus was mangled, car was really mangled-as if that happened), Marc, myself, and everyone else that was here to experience this culture, pretty much experienced all of it-South Korea in 8 days. What a ride.

Next stop–Milan, Italy. I’ll post this chapter of the adventure in a few days. I think I’m also going to post some info on some of the gear that I’ve used on this trip whilst competing-specifically little tricks with certain gear that coincide with climbing and competing at this level and style.

To South Korea

2011-01-07T05:01:00.000-08:00

To South Korea

Day 1

Following 15hrs straight on a plane, too many movies, a serious numb butt, lack of food, myself and fellow North American–Marc Beverly made it to South Korea. After getting our bags surprisingly quickly we thought we were off to a solid start. Well, that was short lived as our ride didn’t show up, leaving us somewhat stranded in a very foreign place. Luckily, thanks to Mr. Social Network, our friends that had arrived ahead of us left a message on facebook to where they were. At that point we gathered our stuff and headed in that very direction.

An hour had gone by and we were still weaving in and out of traffic through Seoul, South Korea. We still hadn’t arrived at our friends’ hotel and the meter in the cab was getting out of control. Just as the beads of sweat started to poor down our faces, the cab driver finally found the hotel. Our cab bill was $120. Ew. However, because it was over an hour drive we thought, “huh, seems expensive but I guess that’s how it is.” Well, later that night our friends Malcom and Lukasz filled us in on how cab drivers like to hustle foreigners (because they don’t know any better). So that was $120 wasted. Perfect.

Losing complete sense of what time it was and what day it was for that matter, all we could do was drop our bags and crash. It wasn’t the most ideal of situations–4 of us in a room that certainly didn’t accommodate 4 with beds, but we made it work and gave in to the “endless” day.

All-nighters and around the world

2011-01-04T11:26:00.000-08:00

For weeks the anticipation was building, the thought of traveling around the world to represent Canada at the World Cup of Mixed Climbing, I'm finally on my way. The travel started with my ever-so-kind in-laws who offered to drive me 3.5hrs to the airport. After a relaxing/early morning drive I was on my first flight-the start of a long haul to South Korea-venue #1.

However, my first stop found me in New Mexico, at Marc Beverly's house. It's always more eventful to travel with someone, especially when it's around the world...so...I figured i'd hook up with him and tackle this journey along side. Our goal-stay up all night to try and trick our bodies into South Korea time. By 1:30 this idea was kickin' my ass. But, as most people that know me...fear not, a couple of shots of Red Bull later and my body was filled with enough energy to not only "just" make it through the night with no sleep...but also lead Marc and I into a 2:00am mixed training session on Marc's world cup style climbing wall (in his backyard).

The last time i stayed up all night was when I did the 24hrs of climbing fundraiser in the park (near where i live). This time wasn't quite as grueling, however it still to this moment is taking a toll.

After dragging ourselves to the airport we boarded our first flight to San Fran and began this "round the world in 21 days" journey. Now, sitting here in San Fran Airport, we're an hour away from stepping onto a long flight towards South Korea. Sadly, however after South Korea there will no longer be a world cup in Italy. Due to an unfortunate accident, one of the event organizers was killed and thus the event was cancled. What now? Well, now we have 10 days (between the South Korea and Switzerland World Cup) to explore Italy, visit the Scarpa footwear factory and to go and crush at all the world famous mixed crags throughout Europe. Super stoked on this.

By the time we get to South Korea we'll have been thrown into a day later time zone. That should be interesting. So, see you tomorrow, but today, only a day ahead.

Shout out to my 3 girls and all that helped to make this dream possible.

On a side note...i can't believe how everytime i get absolutely slayed by the cell phone companies when i leave the country. Flip.

The time has come...

2011-01-02T09:00:00.000-08:00

The last four months has been dedicated to training. Last year I learned a lot about what it really meant to train, and train hard. From the start 'til this very day I've actually found a sense of excitement within my training because I've been able to give more of an effort, pushing harder, and now seeing results.

At the end of last years mixed and ice season I'm not sure if "disappointment" is the right word but i was left with a feeling of un-fulfillment. I had competed at the Ouray Ice Festival which didn't go as well as planned, I had competed at a World Cup in Switzerland which was a great learning experience but I wanted more, and I was really close to sending a route that i thought was once impossible. So many "almosts". Well the time has come to go after what was almost last year.

My training, after four months solid-in my climbing gym, on the "splice" (steep plywood ice), the "49'er" (logs strung across my yard), route climbing, intervals, tabata, all of it– has come to a point of no return. It's funny because last year with my training, i guess deep down I sort of knew that i hadn't really given it my all. And as i look back, i can see what that transformed into through my climbing and some of the "almosts". But this year, this training year has been different. I've learned so much over the past couple of years, how to train properly pertaining to my body, how to focus on weaknesses, etc. I feel different. I feel stronger. I feel ready. I gave it my all.

Monday, January 3rd marks the first day of travel on a big adventure. Traveling across the world to South Korea, Italy, and Switzerland, stopping at the World Cups of ice/mixed climbing–representing Canada–wild but crazy at the same time. I'm super excited in so many ways but at the same time...definitely nervous. I mean, traveling across the world is one thing, competing on the centre stage of the sport, but also leavin' my girls behind...I think that's the part that makes me most nervous. I've traveled a lot in the past few years...but never really any longer then 10 or so days. Typically by day 5 or 6 I begin to miss my girls...a lot. This time it's going to be for 21 days. That's a long time. I suppose with all the mental training i've been working on, it won't only be applied to my climbing...but to my life in general too.

I really believe that at this point it's no longer about how strong I am, or how much training I've done, but more so focused on mental toughness. Seeing press releases on the world cup events, thinking about all the other "strong" competitors, wondering if I did enough to prepare...all these things pile into my head demanding attention. But that's just it, learning about mental toughness, I need to be able to clear my head of these pointless thoughts. I need to be able to focus myself on the positive, believing in myself...and that's it.

Something that i've been thinking about for the last few days has been two routes that i really wanted to send before i left. One route that i was super close to last year, that i'm definitely strong enough for this year, and one route that i just established close to home. Both routes on the cutting edge of the sport, and both routes that had enveloped my thought process. As I've come to realize though, it hasn't been healthy putting so much attention into these two routes with World Cups just around the corner. World Cups and route climbing are so different. The training is somewhat different, the mental game different. It was a tough realization to come to but i knew i needed to let go of the two routes until i got back from world cup. I guess that's the sort of sacrifice you need to make when involving yourself in the competition world. However, all that being said, there is a sense of relief now, a weight off my shoulders, as there isn't that pressure there to send before i leave. I know that when i get back, i'll have a solid month to send those two routes...sending with focus and 100% dedication.

Training, climbing, traveling, competing, more training. All this preparation has come to what the focus has been on for four months: The world cup of Ice/mixed climbing. I need to believe that all this work, the dedication, commitment...that i've done what i can to be ready. I need to believe that I'm going to do well. That i Just need to climb...and of course...have fun. Believe Gordon, believe.

Game on.

My Review of M's Mentor Jacket!"

2010-12-19T17:08:00.001-08:00

Originally submitted at Outdoor Research

The M s Mentor Jacket^™ has been ruggedly designed, tested, and built for ultimate storm-worthy protection in remote, big-mountain environments. GORE-TEX^® Pro Shell fabric offers bomber abrasion resistance and a helmet compatible hood fits securely to keep the cold ...

It's tough, real tough

By Machavok from BC, Canada on 12/19/2010

Fit: Feels true to size

Sleeve Length: Feels true to length

Chest Size: Feels true to size

Pros: Comfortable, Durable, Lightweight, Breathable

Best Uses: Cold Weather, Wet Weather, Ice and Mixed climbing

Describe Yourself: Professional/Guide

Was this a gift?: No

This jacket performs beautifully. Whether being thrashed by the spray of a raging waterfall in the dead of winter, keeping me dry is what this jacket does best. For climbing, it allows me to breathe, it allows me to move, and it allows me to focus on what i'm doing, not what i'm wearing. I trust this piece.

(legalese)

My Review of M's Exos Pants!"

2010-12-04T15:58:00.001-08:00

Originally submitted at Outdoor Research

These pants will get you through this season, and many more to come. The durable fabric resists wear from ski edges and crampons. It is brushed on the inside for light warmth in freezing temps. Carefully placed storage pockets keep small items in place without interfering with your stride.

My go to pant

By Machavok from BC, Canada on 12/4/2010

Waist: Feels true to size

Inseam: Feels true to length

Pros: Performance fit, Per, Comfortable, Attractive Design, Great Fit

Best Uses: Mixed Climbing

Describe Yourself: Sexy, Climber

When i'm mixed climbing i need a pant that's not going to get in the way. Swinging my legs around, sharp crampons flyin' everywhere, can't have baggy pants that tear easily. The exos pant fits snug, yet super comfortably, as well as fights off the elements, protecting you whilst crushing! They're a durable pant that breathes and can perform at any level.

(legalese)

My Review of Yukon Cap!"

2010-12-04T15:23:00.001-08:00

Originally submitted at Outdoor Research

The ultimate in cold-weather warmth; the Yukon Cap^™ has got you covered when the temperature plummets. A wool-blend exterior and soft-pile fleece lining provides generous insulation. And just in case all that insulation isn t enough, the buttoned ear flaps fold down over your ears...

Canada eh?

By Machavok from BC, Canada on 12/4/2010

Sizing: Feels true to size

Pros: Durable, Stylish, Looks Cool, Comfortable

Best Uses: Casual Wear, Climbing, Travel

Describe Yourself: Comfort-oriented, Adventurer

The second i saw this hat, it was only fitting that i sported it! Living in the Canadian Rockies, it just seemed right to have it on my head–not only for just cruisin' around, but even when i'm climbing in colder temps. The ear flaps conveniently fold up or down when needing to keep your ears warm or let them flop out. The fit of the hat is actually quite sleek, allowing for peak performance without any hindrance.

Climbing for 24hrs for a fundraiser

Tags: Picture of Product

(legalese)

My Review of M's Radiant Hybrid Hoody!"

2010-12-04T15:06:00.001-08:00

Originally submitted at Outdoor Research

Some gear has a singular purpose; your lightweight, carbon shaft ice tools, for example. But there other pieces of gear that go with you on every single adventure. The Radiant Hybrid Jacket^™ is that kind of piece. Its the perfect combo of warm, insulating fleece where you re most ...

I live in this

By Machavok from BC, Canada on 12/4/2010

Fit: Feels true to size

Sleeve Length: Feels true to length

Chest Size: Feels true to size

Pros: Breathable, Good Layering Piece, Comfortable, Durable, Lightweight, Performance fit, Warm

Best Uses: Skiing/Snowboarding, Cold Weather, Ice and Mixed climbing

Describe Yourself: Professional/Guide

If i was only allowed one thing to wear every day...it would be the radiant hoody. It's probably the most comfortable, performance fitting layer i've ever worn. For any sort of movement, fast or slow, climbing or coffee shop, this piece will carry you through 'til the end. It breathes when you need to breathe, it retains your body heat when you're freezin' your nuts off. It's basically the perfect piece to combo with the rest of your "kit" for any adventure.

Backyard Training with Radiant Hoody

Tags: Machavok, Training, McArthur, Petzl, Scarpa, Or, Gord

(legalese)

My Review of M's Alibi Jacket!"

2010-12-04T14:52:00.001-08:00

Originally submitted at Outdoor Research

A monster of a jacket, the rugged Alibi Jacket^™ is a combination of different materials conscientiously designed in all the right places. Tough, weatherproof fabric is used on the hood and shoulders where the elements hit the hardest, a warm soft shell lower body holds in core warm...

Even in the toughest of elements

By Machavok from BC, Canada on 12/4/2010

Fit: Feels true to size

Sleeve Length: Feels true to length

Chest Size: Feels true to size

Pros: Breathable, Comfortable, Performance fit, Durable, Lightweight

Best Uses: Extreme Conditions, Ice and Mixed climbing

Describe Yourself: Professional/Guide

When i'm pushing my limits on a climb I need to be wearing something that feels as though it isn't there–something that fits so perfectly that i don't feel any restrictions. The Alibi Jacket performs amazingly under any condition...even on the sharp end whilst getting drenched by a 60ft waterfall only 10ft away.

(legalese)

Motivation, inspiration, focus, commitment...

2010-11-23T20:47:00.000-08:00

It's cold now...freakin' cold. I was looking at the forecast this morning and it said -18 (for Cranbrook,BC), then i checked the forecast for Canmore, Ab, as i was supposed to be headin' there for some climbing...it read -35. Forget that! It's only November but it feels like January. Within 2-3 days the temps went from chilly rock climbing to chilly ice climbing. I guess on a brighter note, there was no in-between slushy sleety, miserable transitional period. It went right from fall to winter. And quick. Ok, enough about that...

A couple of weeks ago i attended the first "mixed comp" of the year (http://rockandice.com/news/1241--indoor-ice-comps-next-big-thing). It was fun. I ended up comin' in third place, which i'm stoked about. My buddy spainer took first, stoked for him. There was a few things i noticed about my climbing at the comp: 1. I'm stronger...which is cool. I noticed, whilst climbing, that i had more power this year. I was able to lock off on a lot of moves enabling me to reach higher holds with little to no struggle at all. Training is paying off, Splice, Tabata, levers, campusing, figure four/nines, intervals...all of it–thanks Gadd for direction. Cool. 2. I'm still climbing slow. All be it a bit faster, but still too slow. However, realizing this is a good thing because i still have time to sort through it. My main goal from last year was to increase power...i'm beginning to believe that i've attained that. The comp ended up comin down to time. My coach stated, "it's a bummer that it has to come down to who fell off the fastest". As i think about it...i tend to agree. There must be a better way to resolve who wins when several competitors fall off the same hold. I'd be interested to hear anyone's thoughts on that. Next comp: World Cup South Korea. Really excited about this. More on world cup stuff in a bit.

For the last month or so i've been traveling to Canmore a lot to train. Lots of people there are motivated to get out on early season mixed/dry tooling routes...so it's motivating to get over there and join in. Locally, though, I'm lucky to have the Bull River. Timing is everything, however, with the bull as there's a raging river that needs to freeze so that you don't float away. Luckily this year it's frozen over early. Wicked! Last season myself and a few others joined forces and put up a bunch of mixed routes. All super fun. But i've recently realized that i need something harder. There's of course much harder routes abroad..but gas gets expensive, roads are terrible and scarey to travel on...factors that easily put a damper on things.

Pushing in a sport allows for growth, gains, and results. I've been training my ass off this year and i'm happy to see that it's paying off. With any gain in any sport your mind begins to open to certain possibilities that it just didn't see before. For me, just recently i was down in the bull river canyon, looking around for new lines and was blown away by what i was witnessing. Huge routes, 100+ft of overhanging solid rock. Line after line, turning a full 360 degrees, with my jaw dropped, salivating at what i was looking at. I had just realized that I was staring at everything i would need to continue pushing in my sport.

As i began to take a closer look at certain potential lines I quickly became worried at whether or not they would actually go. There was a lot of blank spots that interfered with potential lines being climbable. My first thoughts were, "guess it won't go". My second thought was, "well maybe i could 'help' it along". After hinting at that idea to certain people there was instantly a lot of negative feedback with any "help" going into routes in general. The idea of chipping is definitely a hot topic amongst the climbing world. It's been goin' on for years and it's still an unsettled debate. People do it, people get scolded for doing it, other people still climb it. Tough call. Anyways, today i took another look, rappin' into where the lines might go. I bolted an anchor that will be an epic finish to some rad climbing. As ilowered further into the canyon, i began to see little features, just big enough for the big show to go. My mind turned into its creative mode and i began to see lines that would allow for some top notch climbing.

Talking with a bud of mine online last night, he encouraged me to look real close at the rock, to try my best to make these new lines go naturally, without chipping i mean. I was inspired by that as it presented a challenge. I was challenged to open up my mind and see if i could create something epic without enhancing it. And that i did. I broke free of the box i was stuck in and began creating a work of art. These lines are going to be amazing, surrounded by a very picturesque setting. I'm excited. Once these new lines are complete i'll have the opportunity to train on new, hard lines, pushing my limits of ability, growing all aspects of my climbing...and all this within a 40min drive from my house.

I'm not sold on either side of whether or not chipping is good or bad. I'm still fairly new to the climbing world and perhaps haven't vested the time into such a topic. People have their opinions that are on either side of that endless debate..and that's cool. Me, at this point...whatever. I respect both opinions and that's that for now.

After a great day of climbing today (in the freezing cold) i was super satisfied by my performance. I'm at the point now where i actually (most times) believe in myself and my growing ability. Routes that were "testy" last year, were pretty manageable today. More power = more manageable movement. When i got home after climbing, hung with the fam, did some dishes and then headed back out for a training session on the "splice" (steep plywood ice). And it felt good.

I guess that's that for my random rant on various topics. If you stuck it out for the whole read...thanks for listening. Appreciate it.

More to come soon.

What i use to train

2010-11-06T16:21:00.000-07:00

Throwing yourself at it...

2010-10-17T20:46:00.000-07:00

I think one of the biggest things I learned from last years training for mixed climbing was understanding how and what it looked like in being totally true to yourself.

Last training/mixed season my coach had assigned several exercises and goals set up for me to get after, in turn strengthening my climbing for competition and route climbing. The exercises weren't impossible nor unreasonable. They were pretty specific and to the point. Judging by his lengthy list of accomplishments in competition/route climbing, he obviously knew what he was talking about. When i received his training outline...I was psyched. I was motivated and excited to go after this training regime with everything I had–to be a better climber.

When I first started working with my coach we went through a lot of personal stuff, just so that he was up to speed with my background/history. One of the main things we talked about, focusing on my past, was that I always did things half assed. I loved the idea of doing and being many things but never gave the effort to follow through with most. Typically, it was due to being flat out lazy. (It's a long story to how that was generated–the lazy mentality, but that's for another post).

As I packed up my gear, getting ready to drive back home I was filled with a huge sense of disappointment. The route I wanted so badly to send before seasons end had defeated me. It was 2 moves away from being bagged and I blew it. But here's the thing...I didn't blow it because i fell two moves from sending...I blew it because I didn't "fully" listen to my coach. He specifically stated what needed to get done in order to be prepared for such a route and I had only attacked these "specifics" with about 60% effort. Now, that being said, I had trained a tonne...but a tonne wasn't enough...it was two tonnes that would have got the job done. That "half assed" mentality had come back to haunt me. I let it slip in once again. I loved the idea of sending that route, doing well at competitions...bla bla bla. But loving the idea of something vs. going after the idea are two completely different things.

I've had a lot of time to think about how last year's mixed season went. I've gone over everything about my training habits, my commitment and efforts, all of it. Last year, sure, i was psyched...and motivated. But there was something missing, something that was holding me back. Perhaps focus, confidence? But something has changed. Something big. About a month and a half ago my coach sent me my new training outline. It's full on, with lots to get done. When i first glanced over the outline there were shivers running down my back. That feeling, the shivers, they weren't from fear but excitement. I couldn't wait to get at the first exercise and give it my all.

I came in tonight from training, exhausted. My arms were pumped, i had a headache, and i was super beat. But here's the cool part–all this complaining is a result of giving a 100% effort in my training session. Every time i felt like stopping/quitting. Every time i felt like putting my tools away and headin' inside...I wouldn't...I'd use the feelings of giving up and transform them into another lap. I've made the decision to shut up and keep going with every aspect of my training. No more of this half assed bull shit. Either I'm on or I'm off. No in between. Something has changed inside of me. I've learned from my mistakes. This training season followed by the actual mixed season...it's going to be 100% all the way through plus the additional 40% that I slacked off with during last year's season.

I think in life when you want something, if you want it bad enough...first you need to dig deep and figure out how bad you really want it. After that, if you still want it...then go after it, with everything you got. There is no half way...there's only all the way. And even if you don't succeed in pursuit of your goal, at least you can look yourself in the mirror and grin, knowing you threw 100% of yourself at it.

Training season is on, and i'm totally psyched!

The 49'er - an additional training method

2010-10-14T09:50:00.000-07:00

Check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRX89UPMVPM&feature=player_embedded

Petzl Ergo Mixed Climbing Tool Review by Gord McArthur

2010-10-12T08:32:00.000-07:00

Recently I spent some time in Albuquerque, New Mexico, training for mixed climbing. I know, such a place as this and mixed climbing? You’re right, anything “mixed” is pretty much non-existent there, however what does exist are some top quality dry-tooling routes that offer a lot of varied movement and route style.

With this particular training trip I was lucky enough to bring along the new Petzl Ergo mixed climbing tool. The Ergo is no spring chicken in the history of Petzl’s lineup. Although replaced by the very well known Nomic several years ago, the new Ergo has once again set the standard in mixed climbing with its evolutionary design.
When I first held the tool everything felt different. The weight, the balance, swing angle, the third handle…all of it gave me an initial sense of skepticism. I really wasn’t sure that I wanted to give up my tried and true Nomics. With the nomics, I knew and trusted everything about how they climbed. But holding the new Ergo’s, I just wasn’t sure I wanted to change over, yet I was drawn in like a kid in a candy store, in awe over this new shiny sharp object.

Staring at my pick, glaring down the spine of it, shocked that it was still on the smallest of hold, suddenly my lack of trust began to transform into me continuing on through the route with a “touch” more confidence. It didn’t seem right. When I first held the tool, the swing angle felt too steep. In my mind, all I could see was the pick skating off any hold I touched, “The Specific shape of the shaft and the handle limits the risk of pick shift when switching hands.” – Petzl. But that’s just it, it wasn’t moving at all, not even a skiff.
Obviously taking this new relationship slow, I began by climbing several routes at moderate grades, so that I could see how they would perform under minimal pressure. And that they did, on two routes, side by side, a D6 and a D8 (“D” standing for “Dry”), both differing in style of climbing, the new Petzl Ergos held on beautifully. From that initial testing I moved onto something harder–I felt that how they performed on the first two routes, why not give them a bit more of a push.

My back was arced out in max position, face to face with an overhanging bulge, reaching up as high as possible, searching for the next hold, my tool found something. It didn’t seem big enough to pull on, and I wasn’t sure that the angle of the tool would keep the pick in place. But then something happened. Something different. Because of how you grip the handle, and with the shape of the tool, it was as if the tool just all of a sudden sat into the perfect position. It felt like there was just enough flex in the shaft of the ergo that it enabled the tool to sit properly, at any angle of position (when pulling down). I pulled on the tool, bringing my feet up, shocked that my pick hadn’t skated away. Quickly and somehow naturally I matched on the tool, and matched again…on the third handle. When I realized where my hand was, so much higher up on the shaft then normal, there was an instant moment of, “oh gosh, what are you doing, this tool shouldn’t be on still, don’t pull off, don’t pull off.” At that moment I had embraced this new tool, understanding it’s evolutionary face-lift. In a very short period of time the new Ergo gave me the confidence in attempting an onsight of an M10 and an M12 (after only using the tools for the first time the day before).
“The ERGO is the ultimate tool for the most difficult dry tooling pitches and the most unlikely ice columns. The ultra-curved shaft offers exceptional clearance under the head and allows a wider repertoire of movement.”-Petzl

What I found different (one of a few things) with the Ergo’s is how you hold the grip, and at what direction you’re pulling down on it. Unlike other tools, with the Ergo’s, it’s like you’re grabbing a chin up bar. You seem to use more of your bicep muscle then grip muscles. With the nomics, the way you hold your hands, you end up gripping the tool more (as your hand is in a vertical, downward position). This isn’t bad at all, I love the nomics…but with the handle on the Ergo’s, your hand is in a different position, almost a horizontal position, causing you to use different muscles. Stronger muscles. And what’s cool, is that when you do get pumped…you can almost treat the handle like a crimper (hold) which, for me, how I love crimpers, allows me to hang on just a little bit longer then normal.

The other major addition to the Ergo is the third handle. I had heard a lot of mixed thoughts based on where this third handle sat, that it’s too high, etc. Yes, naturally, when you first see how high the third handle is, you would think that it’s obscenely high…but it’s not. I found it especially useful when you’re cranking on the tool in a stein-pull position. You can just keep matching your way up the tool whether for height specific moves, if you matched the wrong hand and had to correct, or mantling to gain an even further height advantage. If you’re pulling down normally on the tool, the third handle is very stable when matching to gain a few extra inches. Also what I found interesting, and very cool, is that when on the second handle, placing the tool or even swinging the tool (we were using IceHoldz to swing into), the tool feels totally normal, as if you were holding onto a Nomic, or Quark normally. I’ve used tools with super steep swing angles and found that more often then not-they tend to bounce. The new Ergo’s don’t bounce, and the swing angle is steep, but because of the shape of the shaft, it seems to balance out nicely.

I trained for several days straight on these new tools and wow are they amazing. I was able to pull hard on routes that pushed my limits. The tools built up a great deal of confidence in a very short period of time. Whether on steep dry tooling routes, going from figure 4’s to 9’s, first, second, or third handle, or even swinging into Ice Holdz on a steep climbing wall (Ice Holdz are a type of hold that you can swing your ice axes into, like the real thing), the new Petzl Ergo’s perform, and perform beautifully.

Courageous Journey movie

2010-09-23T07:42:00.001-07:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsnwqWX0tTg

The Courageous Journey

2010-09-22T10:57:00.001-07:00

This past Friday (Sept. 17th) two friends of mine and I climbed for 24hrs straight. The reason: to raise money for the Ronald McDonald House (Southern Alberta). I got the idea from a friend of mine/coach (Will Gadd) who did something similar last year and figured it was a great way to apply my climbing to something "better".

About two weeks prior to the event I still wasn't sure if i was going to pursue doing it or not. I felt as though I had way too much on my plate and figured, maybe it wasn't a good idea to add another thing onto the pile. After a couple of days tossing the idea back and forth I decided–what don't i have time for? I mean, of course my job, climbing, family is all important but for some reason, this idea, what was behind it, it seemed like it needed to happen.

There was a lot that needed to come together in order for this fundraiser to work: a website, advertising, fundraising, making the right contacts in order to work with the Ronald McDonald House, seeking out volunteers, acquiring the supplies needed to build the wall, all these aspects needed to be in place and quickly.

After a week of hauling some serious ass, what needed to come together, surprisingly, was coming together. The website was serving its purpose, volunteers were coming out of the woodwork, donations were rolling in, the community was in huge support in various manners, supplies for the wall were practically all donated. In amongst all this hype, it was working–the idea, the vision, the support.

Thursday, the day before the event, was intense. It was wall building day. The idea: to build a 35ft climbing wall in the middle of our down town park (Cranbrook, BC). The idea sounded fine and looked good on paper, but when we started to build the actual wall and structure...we definitely didn't expect to be taking on such a huge project...for it only being used for a day (24hrs).

3:00am had just rolled around when we finally had a chance to rest/get to bed. Myself, Travis, Jesse,(the three climbers) and a few crew had finally finished the climbing wall, holds and all, in the park. We wanted/needed to get way more rest then we did before the big day, but 5hrs was going to have to be enough.

The 24hr climb started at noon on September 17th. The weather was ok, but not great. The three of us were excited, however slightly hesitant as we didn't really know what was to come. 4hrs into the 24hr climb, it became apparent to what we had gotten ourselves into. And then 3am showed up, again, but this time...there was no crawling into bed.

Climbing for 24hrs is no easy task. We had a plethora of holds on the wall so there were many options as to which path to take to the top. I don't think any of us got that pumped throughout the 24hrs, but what challenged us the most was the mental struggle, the will to keep climbing, to keep moving, to stay focused on why we were out there doing what we were doing, to not focus on the fact that no matter how hard you tried, eventually you were going to climb the same "route" many times. I think several things made it easier for us though to keep moving–the children that are out there battling for a better life and the support we had throughout the entire 24hrs from people routing us on, whether belayers, massage therapists, people dropping off coffee at all hours of the evening, etc. The way the community supported this event was inspiring to keep going, not only when we were climbing, but to keep trying in every way i can to help this foundation, The Ronald McDonald House.

At about 4am(ish) we had climbed the height of Mt. Everest, from sea level. Our goal was merely to climb 15,000ft. After 24hrs of climbing not only did we climb the height of everest but we kept going to just shy of 40,000ft. In the last hour alone I climbed 2200ft to finish off the marathon (completely adrenaline based).

This event, climbing for 24hrs, revealed a few things about my climbing. 1) that climbing for this long makes my hands raw. 2)You need to wear real comfortable shoes to climb this long. 3) You need mental toughness to get through such a slog. I've been working a lot on mental toughness with my climbing and I was able to apply it directly to this adventure. There were times during the 24hrs where i didn't want to go on. There were times where i was getting delirious, times where i wanted to puke my brains out. At about 4:00am i just didn't want to climb anymore. But I tapped into something deeper, something stronger: my mental ability to keep pushing, to try harder, to do my best. That ability enabled me to climb more laps in the last hour than any other hour of climbing during the entire 24hr period.

For being thrown together in just under two weeks, The Courageous Journey rose just shy of $5000 and myself, Jesse, and Travis climbed approx. 40,000ft in 24hrs. A special thanks goes out to the businesses that donated what was needed to make this event happen. A huge thanks goes out to all the belayers that stayed up with us for 24hrs, as well as all the other volunteers that made appearances throughout the duration of "The Courageous Journey".

It was an amazing event, in the end, and successful on all fronts. Next stop- Calgary, to drop off all the money, in person, at the Ronald McDonald House. This I am excited about.

To make your day better

2010-09-22T10:51:00.000-07:00

A good friend of mine is in this band. The music is amazing. Have a listen, it will make your day seem a bit better.

http://vimeo.com/15182665

The Courageous Journey

2010-09-10T21:04:00.001-07:00

So, one week today, right about now, myself and two friends will have been climbing for almost 10hrs. As I sit here now, watching a fundraising show, "Stand up for cancer", I find myself even more so motivated to raise as much money as possible for the Ronald McDonald House. Seeing all these people that have had to fight off cancer, knowing that my wife has battled through such a clash. Thinking about how many children, day in and day out, fight for their lives, some courageously coming out on top, some courageously battling until the end. I need your help. It doesn't matter if it's $10 or $1000, every little bit helps. Even if it means slogging up and down a climbing wall for 24hrs. I urge everyone to do what they can to help with the Ronald McDonald House, "Ronald McDonald House Charities® (RMHC®) of Canada is a registered charity that is dedicated to helping children with serious illnesses or disabilities, and their families, lead happier and healthier lives."

"What would the world be like, if no one stood up and took a stand? I know that if enough of us stand up together, anything is possible." Denzel Washington said this tonight during the "Stand up for Cancer" fundraiser. This was inspiring.

I look forward to seeing everyone and anyone that has time to make it to Cranbrook's Rotary Park, cheering, holloring, even throwing things at either myself, Travis, or Jesse, as we climb for the kids that battle for their lives, and the families that battle along side them.

Thank you.

To donate:

http://www.machavok.com/courageous%20journey/index.html

The Courageous Journey

2010-09-10T08:05:00.000-07:00

http://www.machavok.com/courageousjourney/index.html

We're going to build a climbing wall in the middle of the park and climb it for 24hrs, to raise money for the Ronald McDonald House.

It started several years ago when friends of Gord's uprooted their lives and moved to the Ronald McDonald House. They went there to battle along side their child whom was fighting for her life. In the last year several families, whom are also friends of Gord (and his family), have had to do the same - move to Calgary, into the Ronald McDonald House, so that they could provide a magical environment for their child whilst battling for their lives.

"Ronald McDonald House Charities® (RMHC®) of Canada is a registered charity that is dedicated to helping children with serious illnesses or disabilities, and their families, lead happier and healthier lives."

Gord and his family believe in this charity, what it stands for and the services it offers. Through the "Courageous Journey", Gord and his two friends–Jesse and Travis, are going to climb for 24hrs straight in hopes of raising money to help support the Ronald McDonald House, so that it can continue blessing children and their families all across Canada.

The idea of climbing for 24hrs was generated by Gord's coach, Will Gadd, when he fought for 24hrs, climbing ice, in lieu of a similar fundraiser . His inspiration in Gord's climbing has not only made him a better climber, but also taught him how to use his climbing for a greater purpose.

On September 17th, at high-noon, these three gentlemen will begin the 24hr climb on a man made 40ft climbing wall in Rotary Park, Cranbrook, BC. To go along with this event, there will also be a climbing wall for the public to climb on (by donation) so that they too can get in on the action. During the fundraiser a raffle will be on-going with lots of cool things to give a way (like climbing and approach shoes by Scarpa footwear).

We're hoping for your support, not only financially but physically too. Financially by donation, physically by being there and cheering us on (as it's going to be a long 24hrs).

http://www.machavok.com/courageousjourney/index.html

It never gets any easier

2010-08-23T08:29:00.000-07:00

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37552

When things go right

2010-08-22T21:37:00.000-07:00

It's only been in the last several years that I've actually started to "climb". Previous to the last couple, climbing was just another way to get outside and have an adventurous experience. But now, now it's different. When I climb, i feel alive. The movement, the process, the success, the failure, all of it is like an inception into a place where everything feels right.

In recent years my life has become busy. Whether with climbing, family, my business, all these aspects lead to total chaos...on a daily basis. I tend to put too much on my plate, way too much infact, that it's borderline unhealthy. But i deal with it. My wife helps me through it, and the laughter of my children motivates me to push on. Sometimes though, the chaos becomes a little too much to handle smoothly. Sometimes I find myself freaking out and on edge with a "panicky" breath pattern.

A couple of weeks ago I had "one of those days". Too many things piled up way too fast and "shit" basically hit the fan. Now, if you've ever seen "shit" hit the fan...it's never good. Well, this day was that in a nut shell. I didn't really know how to handle such a day as well as how to recover from it. So, I did the only thing i could think of...I went climbing.

The entire drive to the crag, all i could think of was how bad the day was. Even the walk from the van to the crag, still...my mind wasn't into it. But here's where things got kinda cool...the second i tied in and started climbing on the rock...everything changed. My mind instantly went from bad head space to a sense of peace. I somehow, instantly forgot about the bad day and had a wicked evening of climbing. I didn't even realize that I hadn't thought about the bad day for the entire night of climbing until i got back in the van and was half way home.

What's cool about this experience is the whole mental side of things. For the past year and a half Will Gadd has been coaching me with my climbing. Mostly though, his focus with me has been on mental toughness. It's been an intense, committed, battle that has forced me to dig deep within myself and face many issues that have held me back in various ways. Training mental toughness is not easy. It makes you face your weaknesses, not just in climbing, but in life too. But if you can push through it all, sifting through the "thick of it", out of such training the sky literally becomes the limit.

About two weeks ago I sent a long awaited project. This particular route took longer then many-the reason: it revealed my weaknesses. Near on every move was consistently against "my style", thus the struggle. After many attempts it was getting to the point where i thought I just wasn't capable of sending such a route. I began to think that i wasn't strong enough, good enough, that I lacked the necessary skills for such a climb. My mind was taking control over my actual climbing and I was losing confidence. I had even put quite a few training days in, focusing on my weaknesses, paying close attention to improvement with certain skills/movement. And yet, I was still falling off the route.

Lately, I've been holding onto a theory: that everything needs to go just right for you to send a route that pushes your limit. This theory set in hard with several of my attempts on a mixed climb that pushed my limits. I really felt that in order for me to send that route, everything needed to fall into place, perfectly. NOthing could go wrong, not even my breathing pattern. Two weeks ago I sent my project that i feared not do-able for me (not the mixed one, but a rock route). I sent this thing with authority. Every move, my body floated through it as if it weren't a big deal. My feet landed on every foot hold perfectly, my body position was bang on through the crux, and I finished the route with ease.

Up until two days ago I felt as though I sent this route because of my skill. I believed that I was being shut down because i lacked the power, thus i trained the weakness and prevailed. Up until two days ago I thought this route was sent based upon physical traits. This theory of mine, that everything needs to go right to send your hardest route, it's wrong.

This past saturday I had the rare opportunity to relax and do nothing (and by nothing i don't mean nothing, but for me, the closest thing to it). As i was sitting in a lawn chair down by the river, I opened a new book I had been given by Eric Horst. It's title, "Maximum Climbing". 10 pages into this sucker and my mindset had been changed, or more so confirmed i guess. All the training that Will had implemented, focusing on the mental training, suddenly so much of it became clear. In Eric's book, in the first chapter he stated something that made me understand how i sent my project. It wasn't because of my physical state...it was because I took my mental state and transformed it into a power house.

It doesn't take perfection to climb your hardest route, you just need to have fewer performance defects than in previous failed attempts. We often fail to use our minds in the most effective ways. Pondering failure, making excuses, such critical talk wields a powerful negative influence over our performance. It doesn't matter how strong or skilled you are, if you don't utilize the power of your brain, controlling the fear, constraining outside distractions, limiting negative self talk, you will continuously sell yourself short of greatness.

"Climbing your best, then, comes only by replacing outcome-oriented thinking with a focus on the process of climbing, an enjoyment of the dance, and a becoming one with the experience." Eric Horst

Achieving the next grade or sending the impossible is a battle fought more so in the mind than in the body. I didn't send my route because of my physical state. I sent the route because i changed my mental state. My willpower grew larger then my physical power. My brain-centred approach allowed for me to believe the route was attainable. Thus, I sent.

I'm beginning to truly understand that my mental state with climbing plays such an integral part in my performance. I'm also beginning to believe that my mental state is becoming a strength in my climbing. So whether I've had a bad day, or if I just fell off a project after many attempts, I know that through climbing, I have the ability to turn things around and overcome what sometimes seems as chaos, or the unthinkable for that matter.

If you haven't seen Eric's new book, "Maximum Climbing", get it. It will change and enhance whatever it is that you're going after.

Get some!

Gear Review: Petzl Sama Harness

2010-08-16T00:03:00.000-07:00

Whether working a route, crushing your redpoint, or trekking high up in the mountains, trusting the gear you use, knowing that it’s going to perform, is essential. “In the moment” you can’t be thinking about whether or not your gear is going to perform. Now, typically it does come down to the magician…not the wand but there are certain factors with gear that simply make particular actions more attainable.

Over the last 10 years of climbing I’ve had the opportunity to sit in a few harnesses. Some have been “kinda” comfortable and some have left my but cheeks as numb as could be. Harnesses, in my opinion, will never be 100% comfortable, I mean, come on…your butt, your nutts, and your legs are all being squeezed simultaneously whilst holding a human in the air. However, to give the industry leaders credit, harnesses have become lighter, more comfortable, and indeed more functional.

For the last several years I’ve become one with the Sama harness from Petzl–so much to the point that sometimes I wear it to bed. For me, it’s the perfect harness for my climbing. Petzl uses perforated foam padding and a mesh lining to evenly distribute pressure, wicking moisture away to make the Harness incredibly breathable and to help you stay comfortable when your sweatin’ your butt off. The elasticized leg loops stay snug to your legs keeping them in place, maintaining comfort after whipping and when your partner is hang-doggin’ , all the while without “getting in the way” if you’re gunning for the chains. The Sama also features pre-formed gear loops to keep your rack organized and within effortless reach.

I find that petzl puts a lot of time into making their gear as safe as possible. The Sama harness gives two examples: the doubleback buckle on the waist belt that provides simple, rapid closure, and redesigning the belay loop to reinforce safety when you tie in, helping users identify proper tie-in / attachment points.

The Petzl Sama harness is light (approx. 14.5 oz. medium), comfortable, and affordable. I use it for sport climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing. I find with the elastisized leg loops, the materials in the waist belt and leg loops - even in winter with multiple layers on my legs, the harness adjusts to the fit I need without becoming sloppy or uncomfortable and drys fast if saturated by wet ice climbs. The durability of the harness has held up through the toughness of winter conditions and the hardiness of cragging in the likes of deserts and forested sub alpine environments.

Obviously every harness (I would think) is approved by the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, English: International Mountaineering and Climbing Organisation), so they’re all “safe” (I use that term lightly). It really comes down to what you see as functionality specific to your needs/budget/etc. The Petzl Sama harness has grown on me, and through this “relationship” I’ve gained a level of trust that allows me to climb without worrying about what’s holding me to the rope. It’s important to trust the gear you use. It’s also important to understand how your gear performs as well as its level of safety (even when it’s brand new, and especially after a period of time with usage).

Crag banter

2010-08-08T12:49:00.001-07:00

I had heard a lot about Acephale but had never experienced it first hand. This amazing limestone crag, about a 45-minute hike up into the “hills” just past Canmore, Alberta, falls nothing short of world class. As I stood beneath all the routes at the upper wall I was in awe of how fantastic every climb looked.

Of course, with any first time at a crag you want to get on the best routes. From what we were staring at, they all looked like “the best routes”. Thus, we resorted to some of the “locals” (Calgarians who apparently have claimed ownership as it being “our crag”). And thus, the crag banter began.

The atmosphere at a crag has the potential to make or break a good day. What defines a good day? Well, I would think sending, people cranking, good conversation, nice weather, big exciting (clean) falls, someone sharing good food, or perhaps beers at the end of it all. What promotes a bad day? A bad attitude, being a douche bag, gloating over another’s shortcomings, or even spewing opinionated garbage that only fits your personal “do’s and don’ts” of climbing.

“You don’t stick clip the second bolt on this route, that’s cheating!” exclaimed a “local”. “But dude, if you were to blow that second clip, you’d clearly hit your belayer, or worse you’d deck.” “Naaa, you won’t deck, that second clip is piss easy.” “I don’t know man, that move before clipping is pretty hard.” “No it isn’t man, you don’t need to stick clip it at all.” “Well, whatever.” “Well what’s next, stick clipping the third, or fourth, or why don’t you just lace that whole thing up with a stick clip.” “Wow.”

My buddy (call him climber A) and this “local” (we’ll call him cimber B) got into it for a while on what was considered “cheating” when climbing, what was considered “safe”, and so on. After listening to them bat this back and forth I began to formulate my own opinion: Climbing is supposed to be fun, who’s gives a F about stick clipping the first or second bolt. If a climber deems something to be unsafe, then make it safer. If a climber wants to push the limits and take the “ballsy” route, then do so. There’s no right or wrong. Does the climber who didn’t stick clip the second bolt become better for sending the route in that manner? No. Is it cheating to stick clip the second bolt of a route because there’s potential of a ground fall? No. If you’re that concerned about whether someone should stick clip the second bolt of a route for safety and whether that’s right or wrong, perhaps at that time you should try to find the closest form of cold water, proceed to stick your head in it and cool off. Enough said about that.

Next point to address: Climbers will always have a difference of opinions to what routes are good, worth climbing, life changing, or simply not worth giving a second look at. Now, back to Climber “A” and Climber “B” – “Hey man, what routes do you recommend climbing here?” “Oh, dude, stick to ‘these ones’, as the rest are crap” “Huh, really, I heard the lower wall has some pretty good routes.” “No man, those are all terrible!” Climber “C” steps in, “No way man, the lower wall has some fantastic routes” “Naaa, they’re all crap.” Thus my next point…everyone is always going to have his or her own opinion on whether or not a route is good or crap. I’ve learned about this type of situation with movies. When you walk into your local movie rental establishment, more often then not the clerk at hand will have an opinion on just about every movie possible (whether they’ve even seen it or not). But here’s the thing…their taste may differ dramatically then yours. Take Braveheart for instance, I’ve literally heard someone say, “that movie wasn’t all that good”. We’re talking about one of the best movies made of all time. You see, you can’t just bow down to someone else’s opinion…you need to (back to climbing) get on whatever route you feel like and deem it’s worth yourself.

Climbing at Acephale for the first time was an experience and a half. I love going to new crags, getting on new rock and having a blast. For the record, I did get my back side handed to me, but that’s cool…I sort of expected that (as with any new place you go to for the first time). By the second day my fingers were pretty raw but at the same time I practically raced up the trail because I was so psyched to get back on such rad routes. And for the record, the lower and upper wall all have super good routes to climb. The lower wall has a few more moderate climbs (11+’s and mid 12’s) and the upper wall tends to have some harder routes (12+ and up), although there are a couple of 11’s.

Climbing is fun. It’s so fun. I fell off the last hold of my project today…and this was not the first time, however this time i just started laughing. No swearing, no hissy fits, just straight up laughing. It was good.

A humbling yet inspiring story

2010-08-08T12:46:00.001-07:00

How and Why? A Father’s Perspective
By Mark Robertson

I am Josh’s father, Mark. Notice, please, that I said I am Josh’s father, not was. For God is not the God of the dead but of the living! (Matt. 22:32)

Now when a tragic event like Josh’s death happens, we all want to know the how, and I think more importantly the why. How and why? I am going to answer those questions. Let me start out with the how.

On a beautiful spring day, Friday, April 30, 2010, Josh, and three friends who worked with Josh at the University of Georgia climbing wall were climbing in Tallulah Gorge State Park in northern Georgia. They were doing a “multi-pitch trad climb” up a 200 foot route called “Mescaline Daydream.” Multi-pitch means that you climb the route in stages. Trad is short for traditional, meaning that you set your own anchors, using nuts, hexes and cams, in the cracks in the rocks as you climb. Mescaline Daydream is a 5.8 route on a scale that goes from 5.0 to 5.15. For Josh and his friends, who are skilled climbers, a 5.8 route is fairly easy. Josh could do 5.12’s with great skill.

They began their climb two by two, with Josh in the second pair. In that second pair, Josh belayed for the first pitch, which made him the second person to get up to the first ledge. On that ledge several hundred feet above the base of the gorge, they switched out positions and Josh was to lead the second pitch, while being belayed from the ledge.

Shortly after beginning the second pitch, Josh climbed past an overhang, in which part of the rock juts out of the face of the cliff. After the overhang, Josh continued his climb beyond the most difficult part of the second pitch. It was “trad” climbing which means you insert “a piece of gear” about every 10 feet so that the most you will fall is about 20 feet before the fall is broken.

Then it happened, Josh lost his grip and he called out, “falling.” As Josh fell, the last anchor nut he set pulled out and he continued his fall toward the overhang. His feet hit the overhang, which caused Josh’s body to swing upside down. As his body swung upside down, the back of his head hit the hard stone surface of the cliff, as the next anchor held his body suspended between heaven and earth. His body only was suspended, though, and not his soul, because the blow to the head killed Josh instantly. Joshua’s soul was brought immediately into the presence of his Lord and Savior, Jesus Christ.

So that is how Joshua Mark Robertson passed from this life into the next. Now, I will tackle the issue of why. Why did God take such a fine young man that had so much going for him? Couldn’t God have helped that nut to hold? Or just moved his feet a few inches away from the overhang so he could clear it? We could speak in platitudes and say that this was not God’s doing, because a loving God would never allow something so terrible. Or we could say it was just fate, or just an accident, or a result of living in a fallen world, or Satan. NO! I say that God, who is all powerful, took him. And that it was for the good of all who love God, including Josh, and for the glory of God.

When I heard of the death of my son, I immediately turned to God and His word, the Bible, which is able to provide comfort in times of need, and this was definitely a time of great need. John 11, John 14, Revelation 21, Philippians 1:21, Psalm 27, and Habakkuk 3 flooded my mind and gave my soul a peace that God was still working all things together for the good of those who trust Him. But the portion of scripture that God has caused me to meditate on the most, and find the most comfort in answering the question of why is found in Hebrews 11:5 - referring back to an obscure Old Testament Saint named Enoch who lived in the time between Adam and Noah.

Hebrews 11:5 says, “By faith Enoch was taken up so that he would not see death; AND HE WAS NOT FOUND BECAUSE GOD TOOK HIM UP; for he obtained the witness that before his being taken up he was pleasing to God.”

Listen again, “for he obtained the witness that before his being taken up he was pleasing to God.” Just as Enoch was pleasing to God, so was my son, Josh, pleasing to his Creator, Redeemer, and Sustainer. He had given his life fully to serving the Lord, and this gave him a boldness and confidence that very few 19 year olds possess. Josh knew Jesus in a deep and profound way that made you feel the power and love of God just by being in his presence.

And since Josh was pleasing to God, it was God’s design to take him home on April 30, 2010, so that he now joins that cloud of witnesses which includes all those who have lived out a life of faith. They surround us and tell us to fix our eyes on Jesus. So, I will conclude the why of Josh’s death with taking just a little bit of liberty with Hebrews 12:1-3 by changing two words that do not affect the meaning of the verse.

“Therefore, since we have so great a cloud of witnesses surrounding us, let us also lay aside every encumbrance and the sin which so easily entangles us, and let us CLIMB with endurance the MOUNTAIN that is set before us, fixing our eyes on Jesus, the author and perfecter of faith, who for the joy set before Him endured the cross, despising the shame, and has sat down at the right hand of the throne of God. For consider Him who has endured such hostility by sinners against Himself, so that you will not grow weary and lose heart.”

Why was Josh taken? Even though none of us can fully understand it now, I can say with great confidence that ultimately it will be for our good and God’s glory.

EDITOR’S POST SRCIPT: Please pray for Mark and his wife, Michelle, and Josh’s family. The above message was shared at Josh’s funeral service and posted with Mark’s blessings. A hope-filled video that was part of the service is on youtube.com. The Robertson family recently purchased a climbing gym in Atlanta, naming it Ascension Climbing. Josh joins a great cloud of witnesses that includes fallen Christian climbers: David Koop, Tobin Sorenson and Peter Terbush. Koop’s brother, Allen, is a member of SRCFC and provides us with copies of a book written by his parents, Dr. C. Everett and Elizabeth Koop, called “Sometimes Mountains Move.” The Robertsons have received a copy of the book and have been in contact with Allen. Sorenson’s radical approach to climbing and Christianity is documented at Tobin-Sorenson and Terbush’s story of self-sacrifice is shared at Peter-Terbush-Story. And Terbush’s parents have been connected with the Robertsons.

Go Pro Helmet Cam

2010-08-08T12:40:00.001-07:00

I thought it would be kinda fun to mess around with a Go Pro Helmet Cam whilst climbing. Turned out kinda cool. You get a bit dizzy watchin this...don't worry, we'll be workin' on making it less like your on a ship out at sea. Thanks to High Country Sports for lending me the cam.

It's still a bit weird

2010-08-08T12:39:00.001-07:00

Every year myself, along side an amazing crew, put on one of the biggest mountain bike events in North America. It’s a slopestyle formatted bike event that draws riders from all over the world. Every year this event seems to get bigger and bigger. Naturally, this year, history repeated itself…again. Our event, Goat Style Bike Jam, is now affiliated with the World Mountain Bike Association (which is a series of events spread across the world that are based on a points system) which effectively confirms Goat Style as an elite event in the mountain biking world.

Goat Style is built in 5 days. Of course, it takes a year of planning, but the actual venue is contstructed in 5- 13hr consecutive days. It’s very intense, it’s always way too hot, but it’s fun, a different kind of fun, but really fun. Our “build” week creates community. Yes, it’s a really hard week–building, shoveling, walking up and down a hill 6 bazillion times, hammering, sweating, chainsawing, etc. It’s on ya from start to finish…but the end result is always rewarding.

This year ended up being a little different. We built things bigger, our rider capacity (how many riders were competing) was exceeded, there was a deeper attendance of spectators, more sponsors, more vendors, rider ability was heightened, everything had jumped a notch. This is a good thing. It was super overwhelming but our crew handled it confidently.

On the Saturday of the event things were going really good. The wind was picking up but there wasn’t much concern to go along with that. Around 3:30pm one of our crew received a phone call from his dad, who was further up the lake (in Creston, BC) and said there was a huge storm brewing up there. Now, typically when there’s a storm up the lake it usually sweeps around the town of Creston without much concern. So, we carried on. The black clouds that were once “just up the lake” began creeping towards Creston. Before we knew it the storm had reached Creston. The wind was blowing intensely…tents started to chatter. The level of concern went from “whatever” to “oh crap”.

Suddenly the Red Bull Arch collapsed, a 20x20 big white tent blew 5ft from it’s original position, people scattered to address the beginning of mayhem. Next, everyone in sight began screaming. I let go of the big white tent that wanted to fly away, looking up the hill I then watched a 20ft high x 10ft wide x 25ft long scafolding structure get lifted off the ground and thrown like a kite. Only 5 minutes before there were people on and around that structure. Racing as fast as i could I made my way up the hill. The wind was blowing violently. The rubble of scafolding was 15ft high. Scrambling to dig through the mess, searching to see if anyone was under it.

As i sat on the hill in shock of what just happened, in shock that no one had been hurt, tents blowing through the air, steal structures crashing to the ground, thousands running around in panic mode, I couldn’t believe my eyes. Our event was running smoothly…and then pandemonium…just like that. I couldn’t move. I had nothing to say.

There had been a lot of talk about Goat Style moving away from Creston. There had even been offers for a new venue. But after watching our crew piece back together the Goat Style course, leaving it in a condition that riders liked even more then the first look, it was confirmed that Goat Style needs to stay where it is. It was inspiring to see certain crew step up in amongst the chaos and take control. What was shattered, restoration and courage stood tall.

I’ve been home for four days now and still feel weird about Goat Style 2010. It ended up being very successful, which is rad. But there’s still something about the screaming, the sound of the screaching metal crashing to the ground, about the crew that i worked with, the “family” that persevered through the mayhem. I’m sure my head will be back to normal in no time…but it’s still weird.

On a completely different note, I took 11 days off of climbing which also felt weird. But it seems as though my body needed that as my first day back on I felt stronger than i have ever before. Last night i came really close to a project i’m working on. This route, last year i couldn’t touch the crux moves. This year, i’m breezing through them without a ton of trouble. That’s cool. Training works!

I’ve attached a link to the video from the event i’m involved with.

More to come.

New Wheels, Energy, and Tweaks in my training

2010-08-08T12:37:00.000-07:00

Oh so sweet…
Up until about 3 years ago I was into a bunch of different sports. Kayaking, climbing, mountain biking, etc. I basically loved all sports that involved being in the outdoors. But three years ago, something changed. Something altered my “I like all sports” to “I just want to climb”. Thus, a couple of weeks ago i sold my mountain bike and BOUGHT A VAN! Yes, i love this. Essentially i needed a second vehicle that i could live out of when I’m on the road. As i sit here, looking outside, I can see my new (used) Safari Van. So sweet. Inside, newly built cabinets, a bed, and some typical amenities: Fridge, stove, cutlery, dishes, dishwasher (just kidding), etc. I’m stoked. My wife refuses to drive this beauty…I say it’s like drivin’ a porche (sort of).

Energy
I love climbing. Just about every aspect of this sport gets me all fired up. But of course, with anything we love, there’s always challenges along the way. Recently I’ve been thinking a lot about the energy to which can be created with whom your climbing with or, those who are around you at the crag. Now, a lot of dealing with surrounding “energy” falls back on your mental “toughness”. And just to be clear, when I say “energy” i’m talking about the mood, the atmosphere, positive reinforcement vs. negative reinforcement, creating a positive outlook out of something negative, and so forth. The other day i was out climbing and throughout the “session” you could tell there was a lot of negative energy in the air. People weren’t psyched, there were negative comments being thrown around left and right, it just wasn’t good. This plays an effect on your climbing. Whether you realize it or not, a negative atmosphere, or negative reinforcement can cause your IPS (ideal performance state) to drop which basically lowers your climbing potential/ability. As i said, this has a lot to do with your personal mental toughness and how you handle things…but I think it’s important to always try remaining positive with those whom your climbing with, to always encourage them to push harder, to go for that next hold no matter how pumped they are…and if they can’t do a move encourage them anyways…it makes a difference.

Tweaks
I’ve been learning a lot about my training in climbing…the in’s the out’s, what to do, what not to do, and how to do it. And I’m fairly confident that i’ve been making good progress. My climbing has improved, i’m sending harder routes, my onsight level is coming up. All in all, i’m quite happy. However, recently i spent a few days in skaha, Penticton (BC), and got totally worked on longer overhanging routes. This annoyed me. My climbing has improved, I’m stronger, my endurance has increased a lot…what was the deal. Well, yesterday i spent the afternoon with my coach and he worked me to the point of failure. It didn’t take much. Why? Right away he realized what the issues were and attacked them/me with exercises that exposed such issues.

I’m used to my home crag. A lot of the routes are sort of steep, but more so technical. My home crag is where i train, where i spend most of my time. It makes sense now. I’m not used to steep overhanging routes, nor have i trained for such routes. Thus, put me on one and things don’t go as well. This also became apparent in training yesterday. My coach put me on an exercise that involved climbing a bouldering problem that was super overhanging. After about the 4th or 5th attempted lap on the problem, things started to fail…and quickly. Another factor that was noticeable (by coach) was my body tension. I thought that area was pretty good. Nope, I was wrong. Next exercise: Lever training intervals. Wow. Hard. But oh so good. This exercise too revealed a lot. My body tension was failed after short periods of time.

Training: To improve on my endurance for overhanging routes I’m going to do climbing interval sessions. There is an exercise called “4x4” which is kinda hard to explain but to put it simply: I’m going to use 4 different bouldering problems that are sort of hard (but that i can send pretty much every attempt), and with each problem, however long it takes me to climb that problem…that’s how long i get to rest before climbing the next problem. Repeat this four times. Yes, that’s 16 boulder problems. Ew ew ew. (I’m pretty sure that’s what was explained to me by Gadd, if I’m wrong then 1. I’m going to be really sore after doing my version of a 4x4 and 2. Before i destroy myself, if it’s wrong, tell me what the right way is). Going to do this 2-3 times per week.

Lever Training: Lever training is going to help with my body tension. Apparently my butt is hangin’ a bit low on overhanging (horizontal rough) routes. So, training the front lever (hanging from your arms, lift your body up and extend your legs straight out, leaving your body completely horizontal-as stiff as a board) will increase your body tension. How to do this, or, how i’m going to do this: Lever interval training. This entails doing reps of front levers (or half levers-only extending one leg out, or “front curls” which is lifting your body up, keeping your back parallel to the ground but tucking your legs into your stomach) until fail. The amount of time you spent doing your set of lever reps, that’s how long you get for resting between sets. Do 5 sets 2-3 times per week.

I’m always excited to learn about how to improve on my weaknesses. It motivates me because i know it’s going to make me a better climber. I like the mental challenge of sticking with it as it reveals how bad you actually want “it”.

Thanks WG for getting me into the gym when it was closed and thanks, as usual, for layin’ the smack down.

A split second decision

2010-04-10T13:28:00.000-07:00

Two moves 'til the chains...in my head i start to think i'm going to send. I can feel it. I put my fingers on the last hold before the top, things begin to go down hill, top speed. I can feel my fingers slipping off the crux hold. I look over, watching them slide. My mental state goes from, I'm going to send, to I'm going to fall". Headspace gone, feeling the whip comin' i grab the chains.

This is a tough one. It's a mental state one needs to tap into if you want to push, grow, progress. You need to not be in a position of making a decision, but in a position where there's only one choice, no options. It takes practice, lots if it. It takes a history of falling to know that, for the most part, when on bolts...falling isn't that big of a deal. Now, that's obviously depended on the terrain below you, but typically...it's risk free.

Right now, i'm sitting at home envisioning going for that last hold. I know i should have just gone for it because i really don't know if i would have stuck that final hold or not. And now i'm not going to know. Sure, i'm goin back and will probably send next try...but i have to go back and try it again. It could have been over now.

My thoughts on this...no matter if your pumped out of your tree...even if the next hold, or finish hold, is miles away...go for it anyways. You just never know when you might tag it and stick it. Taking big falls takes a mental state that needs practice...but the only way you're going to get practice is if you take the falls. I blew it today. Tough, really tough. But let me tell you...there's going to be no more chain grabbing for this guy. Whip whip whip.

From one season to the next

2010-03-25T07:45:00.001-07:00

It's the end of March, no snow left, ice has melted and the rock is warm. I just got back from climbing in Vegas (at the Red Rock Rendezvous - climbing and teaching), sweltering heat, sun burns, and now pretty psyched to start the rock season locally. Before I left i was working on my project, Musashi - M12. I had traveled to its location several times but each time coming up short. My last time there i came within 2 moves of sending the route. It's 60ft of overhanging roof to a dagger of ice then chains. It was so flippin' close. As I left that last time I was really struggling with the fact that I hadn't sent the route. So much to the point that for a week after I would find myself drifting off (in my head) and resiting the routes beta over and over (in my head).

For some reason i always have a hard time letting go of a particular season. It's weird because when i start a new season of rock or mixed/ice i'm not always 100% stoked. But as the season progresses, as i get deeper into it i don't want to let go at the end. Especially when i'm super close to sending my long awaited project.

This season of mixed/ice climbing was intense on many levels. At the beginning, back in Sept./Oct. I had set out a lot of goals. Big goals. I wanted to attend several comps all over the world, I wanted to send certain routes, etc. etc. And now i sit here, wishing there was more time, wishing that i could still get out there and finish off what i had set out at the start to do. But i guess that's all part of it...being able to let go, taking some time off (from that discipline) and then getting fired up to crush the following season.

I learned a lot about myself this past season of climbing. Working with my coach (Gadd) I had the opportunity to really push in my climbing. Whether physically or mentally, I went deep and it was wild. I learned a lot about physical training, how to push, when not to push, and if i was pushing too hard or not enough. I learned about my weaknesses, my strengths, things that were holding me back, and how to focus on what mattered. I never knew something like climbing could offer so much towards things that don't actually have anything to do with climbing.

Mental toughness has played a huge role in my climbing...especially this year. I've read a few books now on this subject and have now confirmed that it plays an integral part in succeeding at what it is you're pushing in. For me, my climbing needs mental toughness. Whether a fight with my wife, if my kids are screaming, if i fall off a route during a comp (which did happen and it sucked), late flights en route to a comp, any of these things pertain to mental toughness, and without mental toughness any of these things will hinder your ability to perform at your best level.

It's funny, letting go of a season, letting go of a route, walking away...it takes huge mental toughness. I found myself obsessing over Musashi to the point where i would thing about the route all night and day. I knew i could do the route, I knew i could send, but i didn't and the season was coming to a close. The route was pretty much at my limit. But here's the cool thing: after talking with my coach, i realized that yeah, sure, i could go back and send the route, but it would take everything in me, and would that satisfy me? I'm not really sure...but i know what would satisfy me: walking away from the route, coming home, training my ass off, working on weaknesses, focusing on how to get stronger, then...going back and slaying the route with ease. That gets me fired up.

I've come to the end of my mixed/ice season feeling good. Gadd taught me so much that i have years ahead of me, focusing on what i've learned and putting it to good use. Musashi is just 8 months away. For me, that's 8 months of time to get stronger, working on what i've learned from Gadd, and to simply build up the "psyche level" with the anticipation of getting back there and crushing.

It's rock season now and i'm totally stoked to give'er. Mixed season is just around the corner, awaiting big things. Yes, big things indeed...certain routes to get sent, world cups to attend, and a little ol' ice fest called Ouray to win. See, i'm already stoked about the next mixed season and it just finished.

Game on.

Persevering

2010-02-19T09:04:00.000-08:00

Every time i go out, i learn something, whether weakness or strength. If it's a new route or a route i've been on a bunch of times, it seems as though something is always revealed. A lot of the time is can be a humbling experience, and sometimes it can be an experience of perfection. These moments vary from time to time...but i guess that's what it's all about...allowing those moments in and using them for the greater good of your goal(s). And hopefully, someday, at some point, you'll get the opportunity to put to work everything you've learned, all the experiences you've had, to persevere past your limit.

This year has been a totally different year of climbing for me. It's the first year that i've actually tried to climb and climb past my "limit". What a trip this has been. It's forced me into positions that are totally out of my comfort level. During a day of training, my coach began to push me in this area "comfort", as he recognized that my climbing was "too comfortable". The result of this process, me taking a huge whipper off of a tiny icicle falling 25ft top speed. It was cool. The point: to stop climbing comfortably and push past your "safety blanket". We're getting there in this area. If you want to push in your sport, you can't stay at a "comfortable level". You need to put down your blanky and give 'er.

From the moment i heard about it, saw pictures, and picked up my first set of tools, I wanted to climb Musashi. It's a beautiful overhanging roof route that is sustained at a horizontal angle leading out to a thing dagger of ice. It's amazing. For years, this route was the staple in the Mixed climbing world. It was revolutionary to the sport, and is still sought out by many of the top athletes in the world. I'm here now, motivated more then ever to climb this route. I've been at the ciniplex (where musashi is) a few times, even dabbled on the route a couple of times, but never with any level of skill to make a good go at it. Again, I'm here now, and ready.

Climbing at your limit is a mental battle. You never know when things will align just right for that moment of perfection, for sending a route at your limit. Things need to go right, the whole way. How often does that happen? Well, sometimes it can be a common theme, and sometimes, it can happen very little. But, to make up for those moments where you're lacking confidence...you need to dig deep mentally and just breathe. Three days ago i stood at the first bolt, staring at the first hold, thinking about my first move. Knowing you're ready is one thing, but telling your body to move at the same time...it's tough.

Moving through the moves, things are going well, suddenly my arms start to fatigue...and fast. I'm hanging now, dangling 30ft off the deck. Wondering what the heck happened. Lots of training, doing twice the routes length as far as number of moves go. I was ready, i had the endurance. I had the confidence. I was confused, pissed off, disappointed, and mentally drained.

When you get psyched about a route, especially when it's at a higher level of difficulty, your mental state can often step into, "train 'til you puke" mode. This isn't good. You'll train harder, longer, pushing beyond what your body can handle. I think this is what I did, not knowing it but only seeing the end result - sending the route. It's a process. If you keep your eyes solely focused on the send, and not the process, you'll potentially miss what you might be doing wrong along the way. For me, I hung there with a sore elbow, a sore shoulder, and super tired. This shouldn't have been the way. But it was. And of course, right away in my head i said, "guess i have to come back again". I was psyched to tap into that state right away as it was a positive place to be in. I don't want to give up, until i get it. It's hard though, you know? The strain of traveling, how wearing that can be on your body, the driving, the flying, the cost, the restless nights, snoring people, lack of food, or good food, the same road, time after time, going back to your project, especially in this case where it's a 4.5hr drive, it can be so tiring. Another thought in my head, at the same time, "how am i going to explain this to my wife?". This is always a tough one. I need to keep in mind that climbing is not my #1 priority. It's hard of course as all i can ever think of is climbing, but thank goodness i have an understanding wife.

When things don't go right, when things don't pan out as you had hoped..it's in those moments that can define your climbing. It's in those moments that can guide you to either sending the route or hanging up your spurs. For me, i've found this year to be different in that when something doesn't go as well as planned, yeah...it can suck...big time, but it seems as though these miss fortunes are actually blessings in disguise. It seems as though moments like these just motivate me more. Although, on a side note, something that can sometimes distract me is climbing for the wrong reasons. A lot of climbers have support, which does make achieving goals easier at times (cost of trips, gear etc), but when you allow your climbing to be guided by, "what will my sponsors think?", at that moment you need to step back and ask yourself why you're doing it. Perspective is important as it can guide decisions that can lead to being on top of the world or not being in this world any longer. Anyways, so what's next...well, recover for a few days, train for a few days...and head back to Musashi to send. It's not over yet.

Old Gear
I've spent a few days now at the Ciniplex, working on my project. A lot of the routes that were put in this cave were set years ago. Now, typically with gear that's set in place, usually lasts for quite a long time...but something to know about this cave, is that in the summer it's pretty much filled with water. Panther falls explodes over the front of it essentially filling the cave with heavy spray, thus torchering the hanging draws on all the routes. The most recent days i spent in the cave, we took a closer look at all the draws and there's only word to describe them: SCAAARREEEYYY! So needless to say, we spent a little time re-setting the draws with new ones.

Part of being a climber sets a certain responsibility outside of actually climbing. Thousands of climbers are, every day, investing into routes by putting up bolts, leaving draws, setting anchors, etc. and it's not easy. It's draining, physically and financially...but it's about giving back, setting the way, providing opportunity. As a climber, if you have the means, and you see something unsafe, replace it, so that the next climber trying to send, can send without worry of being unsafe.

A different world

2010-01-23T07:54:00.000-08:00

Tuesday, January 21, 2010

A different world

Coming home from Ouray, slightly disappointed but acknowledging some of the good that came from that trip, I was psyched to move onto the next competition–the world cup in Saas Fee Switzerland. It was slightly disheartening with how Ouray went, knowing that there was an even bigger event around the corner, as I basically, at first just wanted to crawl into a hole. However, as I’m learning, competition climbing has its ups and downs. And that’s just the nature of the beast.

Leaving my family for the second time in the same month, for more than a week, it was hard. I don’t like being away from my family for long periods of time. Usually after about four days, I start to get stir crazy. So this trip, after getting home from being gone for 11 days, and leaving again for 8…I wasn’t overly psyched. And along with that, I had a long journey on my own ahead of me.

Getting dropped off at an airport is becoming something of ease now (thank goodness for good friends and family). But this trip, traveling across the world…it was going to be something new for me. I used to travel to England and Scotland when I was little, but I really don’t remember any of that (or how it felt).

As I have learned, when traveling for long periods of time, nothing ever goes exactly how you planned it. And with this trip, that’s exactly how things went down. Having late flights, missed buses, getting stuck in a foreign village where no one speaks a word of English, it’s all adventure. For all of this though, you need to grow a bit of a thick skin in order to handle the curve balls that are thrown at you. It’s getting there, but still certain things throw me out of my “comfort zone”, but maybe that’s a good thing.

So, after a long flight from Phoenix to London, I hoped on another plane from London to Geneva. As I mentioned, because of late flights, my travels from Geneva, Switzerland to Saas Fee, Switzerland were put on hold. Instead, I got stay in a shoe box of a hotel that was way over priced (it was a bed, a tv, a sink and toilet, oh and a single bed at that). At this point, I was missing any sort of comfort from someone I knew, my wife, friends, whoever…but I really wasn’t going to get that…I just had to suck it up. As I did. It was a good learning experience. Gave me a chance to talk with God, watch a movie, and just relax.

I was able to get some sleep but still way off kilter from the time change thing, regardless I made the first bus in the morning and completed my travels to Saas Fee, Switzerland. Along the way, on the bus, we traveled through this crazy tight valley between enormous mountain ranges owned by the title of the “Swiss Alps”. It was amazing, every part of that drive kept me looking all over, back and forth, up and down…I didn’t want to miss any of it.

Since arriving in Saas Fee it’s been nothing but a great experience. This little village, looking like it was created in the 1800’s, was super cool in every respect. Whether all the shops, the kind and generous people, the towering mountains running right to my very door step, all of it keeps you in awe for every moment that you’re hear. Today i had the delight experience of sun tanning infront of bay windows that looked onto the Swiss Alps. Can you ask for more than that? It’s been a bit of a battle working with a village filled with people that speak little to no English. I’ve found myself constantly using hand gestures, dancing around like a monkey, in order to get across what it is that I’m asking for/requesting. So far I’m not starving and I’ve managed to do some shopping…so it’s going alright not speaking much of what they speak here (cross between german and French). I'm also with friends now which is really great. Always makes for a better experience. Marc Beverly and Justin Spaine are stayin with me, and others that i've met along the way are here too (like Adnres Marin, whom i'm on the Ice Holdz team with...and by the way...if you don't know what Ice Holdz are, and you like to climb mixed or ice, this is something you need to get on for training...and i hope to see this product get integrated into world cup competition.).

For the business.–I’m hear competing at the world cup. Tomorrow I represent Canada in a scene that I’m very foreign to. These competitors are the real deal. It’s not like Ouray or anything else I’ve experienced. They strong, really strong, fast, agile, smart, and did I mention strong? But all of this is ok. I’ve been training a lot and turns out that a lot of my training fits along side with this style of climbing. Good news. I don’t have any expectations here as I’m new at this, with little experience. But that’s what it’s all about: the experience. The more you have, the more you grow in that style. Tomorrow I’m just going to climb like I know how. I will throw for the moves I can’t reach, I’ll scream for the holds I go for and stick, I’ll get my feet up above my head, figure four everything in sight if I have to, and the point to all this…is that I’m just going to climb, trying my best to have as every bit of fun as possible. That’s cool. I definitely feel a little more relaxed here than previous comps etc. Maybe it’s because I’m naïve to what it’s really going to look like tomorrow…I don’t know…and really, at this point…it’s all good. Other competitors have been really great in welcoming the only Canadian onto the tour. It's been cool like that. Side note, if all else fails, i can say i owned the ping pong table at the athlete dinner tonight. Didn't matter what country stepped up to the plate...Canada held "his" own. Ha ha.

I’m psyched about tomorrow. It’ll be a great experience. Right now, gonna head to bed, keeping a level head, focusing on being strong, to just climb, and be ok with however it goes. From all of this, the main thing that I’ve learned is that my identity doesn’t come from how I place in a comp. My placing in any comp doesn’t proclaim the level of my ability in climbing. In competition sometimes you will fall off the first few holds and sometimes you'll have the climb of your life. It's all good. First and foremost, my identity comes from God and that’s rad. Secondly, my climbing…it is what it is. I love learning, getting stronger, climbing new routes, working with good people, meeting great people, and seeing lots of amazing/new places.

I’m psyched. Really psyched.

More to come after the comp.

If it were easy, then what would be the point?

2010-01-12T22:48:00.000-08:00

(These are just quick thoughts put together from this trip. I have more thoughts on this humbling experience, however i need to sort through them a bit more, so that i can speak a little more clearly on what i've learned)

My last entry was written right before I arrived in Ouray, Co. From then until now, a lot has happened, so bare with me as there’s a few things to talk about.

When I arrived in Ouray, I was totally psyched–a little nervous, yet fired up and ready to give ‘er. I was excited because this year was different. Finally, this time, I felt that I was actually prepared; strong enough to compete at the Ouray ice festival. I had actually put the time in, getting my body ready, to be fit and strong enough to actually compete.

My first day in Ouray, I ended up going to the cave just outside of town with some friends for a session on steeper terrain. Naturally I was huffing and puffing my way through the climbs as the altitude (8500ft) was kicking my butt. It was a little deterring, as I wasn’t climbing very well, however I soon realized it wasn’t due to my lack of strength or whatever, but more so to do with the altitude. Phew, I had an excuse.

Day 2: Much better outing. I hooked up with Will Mayo and we crushed all day long. Onsighting/Flashing everything I got on, Will redpointing everything he got on. I felt as though nothing could stop us. Steep, long, short, run out…whatever…we were climbing machines this day. Good day.

Day 3: Rest day. Did nothing. Really relaxing. After waking up and crawling out of the closet I was “living” in I had a late breakfast, lazed around for a bit, did some work, then went for a late afternoon stroll up to the park and back.

Day 4: Ended up hooking up with Will Gadd, doing some ice laps with him and some friends. It was nice to get on some ice as the comp route had a lot of ice on it. Will got me on a route with some super thing ice and uncharted rock, which was good as, again, the comp route was kinda similar. Productive day. Felt really fit and strong.

Day 5: Rest day. Again, relaxing, didn’t do much other then takin’ it easy.

Day 6: Rest day again. Went for a walk down into the ice park…talked with some friends, then headed back home. Not much more happened this day. Caught a couple of slide shows in the evening. Super funny, great pics, amazing people.

Day 7: Once again, rest day. Did some walking, relaxed in hotel. Then, mid day, went and picked my dad up from the airport. Was totally psyched about this as I hadn’t seen my dad in some time. Friday night we went to the silent auction, ate some food, hung out with my buddy Stephen Koch, then went home, watched movies in the hotel.

Day 8: Game time. Stressful day. My turn to go in the comp was 3rd from last. Didn’t handle this very well, as I wasn’t relaxed at all leading up to the climb. During the climb, I was rushing myself/movements, not thinking clearly and ended up falling off. Why? Lack of experience in competing. I was strong enough…for sure…but just not smart enough. I was pissed off.
Day 9: Taugh clinics all day which I loved. I love teaching. In the morning I taught advanced ice and in the afternoon I taught advanced mixed. Great times. I also got to watch Will finish his “endless ascent” at high noon. Very inspiring.

Day 10: Went home.

What I learned: “A measure of a man’s greatness is not measured by how he reacts when he wins, but how he reacts when he loses.” That’s what my coach told me at 2am in the morning when I was belaying him on his “endless ascent”. This loss was tough. I was strong enough this time. I had the skills to do well, really well. But what I lacked was the mental experience in competition climbing. I’ve tasted both ends of the spectrum now. And after realizing that I’m not the only one that has experienced this type of defeat, I got over it and begun to transfer this negative energy towards the thought of being motivated to go deeper, try harder, commit further. It’s a humbling experience, however in this type of time, it’s what you do with it that makes the difference. Talking with my coach about it, having his reassurance that I was strong enough, it was good to hear that and good to realized my revealed weakness. I know what I have to work on. Maybe that was the point of this comp…to learn of my weaknesses. It’s easy to train what you’re good at…but it’s what you’re not good at that proves to be the real challenge.

Ouray this year was really fun. I got to know a lot of super rad people, climb with amazing climbers, and experience true inspiration by watching Will climb for 24hrs straight. Life of a climber is no easy path to take, especially when searching to go deeper. Life of a competition climber demands a lot. Anyone can be strong, but strong enough physically and mentally, so much to handle such a path…now that takes real effort and commitment. But I’m psyched. I feel challenged, and I also feel motivated. I just want to go back and win now. It’s back to the drawing board but that’s ok…’cause I love learning.

I want to give a shout out to Will for going beyond what was thought to be possible…again. After doing my “belay shift” at 2 in the morning, going home, going to bed, then coming back again in the morning, many hours later…seeing him still climbing…it inspires me…a lot. Thank you sir for coaching me, encouraging me, and inspiring me. I look forward to more.

Climbing isn’t always about winning, or standing on the top. Sometimes it takes a fall, or a loss, to make you stronger, better, smarter. Sometimes you need to fall to understand how to “stand back up”. I read this verse the day after the comp…it helped:

“Though a righteous man falls seven times, he will get up, but the weak will stumble into ruin.” Proverbs 24:16. When you fall, are you going to stay down, or are you going to get back up and give it another go?

I’m back home now, with my amazing family. However, I’m out again in five days, leaving for the world cup–a competition, again, at an entirely new level. Game on.
By the way, thanks to Mark Allen and Chris Wright for letting me stay in their closet. You guys rock! And thanks to everyone who lent encouraging words after I fell during the comp. Sponsors–wouldn’t be where I am right now without you.

Thank you.

The Journey

Notes & News

Photos

Notes & News

The Journey

Photos

Notes & News

The Journey

Notes & News

Photos

And so it begins

2010-01-02T09:08:00.001-08:00

Sitting in the airport at 4:30am I find myself in a familiar place. Get to the hotel the night before, lay on the bed and watch tv, get up at some ridiculous hour for taxi ride to the airport, get a starbucks protein shake, wait for flight to Ouray, Co. I’ve been here before. However this time, something feels a little different.

For the past several months I’ve been focusing a lot on my training for a specific purpose. My climbing has been narrowed down to “mixed climbing” only. The reason for this: to be “strong enough to compete” at Ouray Colorado’s Annual Ice Festival. Previous to this year I’ve competed in this event and seen substantial growth. Each year I’ve progressed but still, deep down, lacked what it took to really “compete”.

Having a sense of direction, in my opinion, has made all the difference in my climbing/training. Having someone yell at you from below, “don’t even think about giving up here, and don’t think about resting, keep moving….” It helps, it really really helps. Mental toughness, as I’ve learned a ton about this year, allows you to step out of your “comfort zone” and really go for it. It allows you to focus all your energy on the moment that matters. You cross over a threshold where it doesn’t hurt anymore, where you can hang on longer, where you can be way above your last piece of protection and be ok with it.

My training has changed this year. It’s gone deeper and it’s become harder. I’ve learned what “real training” is, as opposed to what I thought it was. Not over training, but training right, focusing on my weaknesses, allowing for constructive criticism, putting in actual dedicated hours in training sessions, focusing specifically on training exercises, and of course-pushing past what my mind thinks is the “end”. Again, having someone to work with me on this has proven beneficial. Someone with a lot more experience then me, someone to critique, yell, heckle, laugh with…all of these things has opened a new door. This door that I’ve gone through has changed my training and climbing in such a way that all of a sudden…there seems to be a little more confidence this year. For the first time, sitting in this place, on my way to Ouray, I feel a sense of readiness…peace if you will.

For 6 days, prior to today, I was super ill. My stomach was a battlefield for the good, the bad, and the ugly. It was full on and I was not stoked. Of course, my mental state was being tried as Ouray was just around the corner. My energy level was lowering rapidly naturally leaving me in a bit of a worried state. Docs were telling me, “oh, you might not get rid of this for a few weeks.” Well that just wasn’t going to work for me. Next best thing–Pray. We’re just about 100% again.

I think because of my mental state this year, it’s allowed me to really enjoy the fact that I get to go to Ouray again, hang out with friends that I’ve met over the years, looking forward to climbing hard, and just having a super good ol’ time. There seems to be a lot of people stoked this year for the festival. There’s lots of cool things going on, like Will Gadd’s “Endless Ascent” (where he’s going to climb for 24hrs raising money for the dZi foundation), great speakers are putting on slideshows, and of course the hype of Vince Anderson’s comp route for this year. And I must not forget about the fact that my Dad is traveling from Ontario to watch me compete. That’s super cool as it will be the first time that any of my family has seen me climb/compete.

I’m so psyched. I feel ready, mentally and physically. I’m grateful for those who have helped with my climbing/training and for those who have given me amazing support along the way (Will Gadd, my wonderful Wife Becky and kids Kayla and Malayah, friends, climbing partners, sponsors). Train like you compete, compete like you train (WG).

I’m going to be writing day-to-day updates on what’s going on at the Ouray Ice Festival…so stay tuned.

More to come.�

Sometimes we're not meant to understand

2009-12-19T08:37:00.001-08:00

It’s been a strange year in climbing. For me, it seems as though more have died this year than in recent years. It feels as though every time you go onto some sort of blog or news feed, someone else has died in the eyes of outdoor adventure, namely Climbing.

The idea of all these people dying has been weird for me. I suppose it’s mostly to do with the fact that I’m pursuing this adventure sport more then ever right now. And with this level of pursuit you indulge yourself, more so, into more facets of the sport. Whether meeting lots of new and great people, learning more about the industry, writing for various publications, whatever it is, but it’s almost as though you become apart of a world wide “community”. Thus, when someone has “fallen”, it hits you harder then expected.

I first got a taste of this “dark feeling” a couple of years ago when a good friend of mine fell while soloing a mountain in the Lake Louise area. Hearing about his death, on a climbing trip I might ad, shook me more then any “usual” death in the past. Upon receiving this news I even tried climbing the day after…but that was a disaster. I was terrified to get off the ground, whether it was a “ladder” I was going up or whatever. It didn’t matter–I was scared all of a sudden, to the point of not wanting to climb at all or maybe even anymore.

When I was first told about Guy Lacelle dying it stopped me in my tracks. Now here’s a guy who was “super natural” when it came to climbing ice. Climbs I dream about sending, he’s soloed in his sleep. He was an inspiration in many ways to many people–the kind of guy that was supposed to be elite from injury; that couldn’t die. However faster than a speeding bullet, he was gone. A reality check was slammed in many faces, including my own.

We have a simplified understanding of death when it comes to old age, but when it comes to death taking the form of accidents etc., our level of understanding is quickly replaced with a sense of emptiness. We search endlessly for reasoning, justification, or peace that allows us permission to move on. On the contrary, my scurrying around in search of my understanding always leaves me with the short end of the stick. But perhaps that’s the point…that we’re not to understand but more so have trust and faith in a greater force. This force? The one who’s in control, the one who “Is”.

A friend, after telling me about Guy Lacelle’s death, told me, “I hope you can find peace with this through your beliefs….”. And instantly, I felt a sense of warmth. That was a reminder to me that I needed to stop fighting with understanding and give up to God. I needed to put my trust in Him, knowing, believing that He had things under control. I was reminded that my faith lays in the hands of what I can’t see, not what I can see. God is good, so good infact. And with all the deaths that have taken place in recent years, it’s still hard to deal with, but God brings comfort, He brings light to all of it. Maybe not right away, or as soon as we hope, but He does in His good timing. Through anything He can bring greatness, enrichment, and peace.

I give praise to my creator. I trust Him (although it can be hard at times). And I ask anyone who’s reading this, who hasn’t had the opportunity to share a relationship with Christ to open your heart to such love. You never know, you might just find something you’ve been longing for. You think climbing brings excitement and adrenaline? Chillin’ with God super-seeds any such “rush”.

Keep pursuing your passion, and if another comrade “falls”, raise your glass and embrace the great moments that they have left for you to smile about.

Cool.

Constructive Criticism, patience, and success

2009-11-11T19:03:00.000-08:00

Machavok.com/Climbing (more here...)

Thanks WG for your coaching and willingness to get in my face...

For the past few months I’ve been working with a coach, trying to develop the skills in order to compete at a successful level. Throughout this duration, I have found that climbing, with all things considered, is the easy part. What really lead to a struggling battle was focusing on the mental side. Digging deep within myself to reveal the very things that were holding me back; not just in climbing but in life too.

Being over excited, over motivated, and determined to get stronger, my training lead me to cranking hard at a level that was becoming detrimental to my body. It didn’t matter if I was on my 6th day of climbing/training, but that I needed to keep pushing so my climbing ability would reach the next level. I could feel injury sneaking up on my body, fatigue setting me back from proper training sessions, but I ignored these vital signs telling my body to suck it up. That proved to be a major set back. As my coach had put it, “you’ve basically trained enough for the next couple of months, you might as well rest for the next 3 weeks.” In the course of 2 weeks (prior to a climbing competition that I was going to attend) I had pushed my body to an unhealthy level…and I could feel it.

My coach was stern, maybe even a little harsh, which at first was a tough pill to swallow but as I thought more about his direction and tactics/approach I realized it was what was needed. I didn’t need anyone telling me, “there there, you’ll be alright, don’t worry”. No, I needed someone in my face telling me that I was doing it wrong, that my training was going to hurt me more than help me. I accepted the constructive criticism and re-grouped. I accepted that for a coach, what makes a good coach, is their willingness to be honest but encouraging, bold yet motivating, and sometimes even harsh but caring.

For the next two weeks my training had settled down in intensity but became more focused and controlled. My body was beginning to recover and mentally I was able to stay motivated and positive about the upcoming competition.

Mental toughness should be a sport in of itself. The effort it takes, the energy and determination, the commitment…it’s as if you’re about to take a penalty shot in a world cup final soccer game. It’s intense! The more and more I read about mental toughness the more I realize how crucial it is to have it. You don’t necessarily need to be the best in your sport, more so being strong physically as well as mentally. You could take the top climber in the world, strength wise, but put them in a competition without mental toughness, typically it’s not going to turn out. With this, it’s been interesting as the more I learn, the more you can see lack there of in others. Is it something that isn’t known? Do people not understand or know that mental toughness plays a huge huge role in competitive sports? I don’t know, but what I do know is that it’s changed my climbing…in a big way.

Leaving for Denver, Co. I had to travel two hours to the airport. Typically this isn’t that big of a deal, but this particular journey had a bit of an adventure attached to it. Thankfully, my good friends Nathan and Katie Troxel were willing to lend me their “bomber” Volkswagen golf. This thing is a tank. Not very pretty on the outside, but boy could it haul on the inside. To my surprise the little engine that could carried me to the airport with no troubles at all. I was on my way to my first competition of the year, seating a new attitude and focus that was waiting to be tested.

Game day. Trying to breathe, focusing on my attitude, tapping into my IPS (ideal performance state)…I was still feeling the butterflies. At first this made me nervous but then I remembered that butterflies are a good thing. They’re the ones that are stirring your adrenaline up inside, creating the energy and momentum needed to crush. As I looked around I noticed other competitors were discussing tactics.; I wanted to join in but knew it wasn’t a good idea. I knew how easy it would be to change my tactics in a moment of desperation and lack of confidence, thinking, “well if they’re doing it, maybe I should too”. Luckily, again, I knew this wasn’t the right thing to do. So I sat in a corner, put some music on and relaxed. Even though I could hear other climbers discounting their potential of sending certain routes, discrediting the possibility of certain moves “going”, I still believed that something was different with me, that my attitude wasn’t focused on whether or not the likes of certain moves would go, but that it was only a matter of how they would go.

After a stressful, yet focused bout with two preliminary routes (going at M8+-M9)
myself and three other friends of mine, that were also competing, had managed to find a spot in the finals of this indoor drytooling competition (along with roughly 14 other competitors – out of about 30+ that started out). There was a sense of relief that somehow my body had managed to tap into. Even though the finals was still to come, I was relaxed. My body started to enjoy itself. I wasn’t stressed about what was next, only psyched to climb and climb hard.

Before my feet left the ground I knew what the high points were from previous competitors on the finals route. I knew where my friends had gotten to and the level of difficulty to reach such high points. People were whispering under their breathe about how the route wasn’t going to go, that it wasn’t feasible. And right before my feet left the ground something happened–something powerful, something new, something amazing.

My body began to flow. Through every move my tools (ice axes) were gracefully placed with confidence. Every move came together, the sequences naturally guided my body in the right positions enabling me to progress further and further. All of a sudden I found myself climbing past the “highpoint” of a previous competitor. I didn’t understand how my tools were staying on certain holds, but they did. My picks allowed me to rest, regain what was needed to keep moving. The placements were bomber on holds that weren’t. I didn’t get it, but I wasn’t willing to hang around and think anything more about it. Still moving I was just a couple of feet from topping out…the crowd screaming beneath me to keep going…I couldn’t believe it. A route that was thought to not be do-able, I just crushed. Settling my tools on the final hold, looking down with pure excitement, I had just onsighted an M10+ to capture the win.

A successful moment

Winning this event was huge for me. First off because it was the first event of the year and to start out that way, well how else would you want to start out? Secondly because it showed me mental toughness will lead to bigger and better things. My coach that was in my face about certain things, what he was doing wasn’t disabling me, but on the contrary: he was preparing me. He knew what was needed for me to gain success. His methods were sound and by me winning this event proved that very thing.

Mental toughness is something to be taken very seriously in the competitive world. You don’t need to be the strongest or the best, however you do need to have a “tough head”. You need to be able to tap into this at any given moment, the mental toughness that lays within. We all have it, it’s just a matter of digging deep to uleash it.

Thank you to Terri and Jay at Ice Holdz for being so supportive at this comp in Colorado Springs. Also thanks to Blake Herrington (and his wife Alison) for putting me up for 3 days. You guys were amazing to open your home and welcome me in. Isn’t it cool how God works sometimes? Blake, also thanks for showing me around to some of the coolest and steepest granite climbing I’ve ever been on.

On a side note, I spent the day with two super rad dudes in Boulder Co. who enlightened me and provided much insight to me on a big project I’m working on. Thanks Jerad and John for all the information and guidance. More to come on this soon…�

New website

2009-09-03T15:18:00.001-07:00

New website, everything is there: http://www.machavok.com/Climbing

peacful meadows and rest for the wicked

2009-08-19T22:16:00.000-07:00

Often I find myself racing a million miles an hour. Sometimes that's good, but sometimes that can be crippling. Lately i've been doing my best to stick with my training regime. It's tough, but that's ok 'cause i'm super motivated. However, as motivated as I am, sometimes i feel super bogged down. It's takes a toll, putting so much into something. Especially when the results are minimal. I guess that's where the mental game comes in...knowing that what you're doing is on the right track, just trusting that it is working, the training program, and to stick with it.

Two days ago a friend (who runs a backcountry cabin outfit) asked me if i wanted to help him pack in some food to his backcountry hut. I chose to help him as he is a friend and i felt as though i should as he's helped me many times in the past. He's a great guy and i was pretty stoked to hang out with him. I invited my brother-in-law to come with as he had never seen the terrain we were about to embark on. The night before our little venture i wasn't stoked at all. Maybe due to laziness, maybe because i didn't want to take time off of climbing (even though it was only for a day and a half), who knows...but i just wasn't into the idea anymore.

Up at 6:30 we were on our way and after 3hrs of travel and 2 hours of hiking, i found myself lazed out on a lawn chair, wrapped in a thick blanket in what seemed like heaven. Surrounded by beautiful mountainous landscape in the thick of a meadow as far as the eye could see, i was more content and at peace than, heck...i don't remember when. I dozed in and out of slumber for at least 4 hours. It was perfect. Oh, and of course, my brother-in-law Aaron was right beside me, in his own lawn chair, wrapped in a blanket, enjoying the moment also.

I find it hard to just sit. Really hard actually. I feel as though the more i just sit, the more i'm missing out on getting something done, or started for that matter. I think God forces me to sit sometimes. He does know better...so with that, I trust those situations. This particular situation, in the meadow, wrapped in my blanket...i'm pretty sure that was one of the "presented" times by God. We all need some quiet time-whether chosen or forced. It's good to stay calm, experience total peace, enabling us to think...to think deep. I believe that when we're at peace the most, it's in those times where we can hear God's voice the clearest. Super cool.

I'm reading another book right now based on mental toughness. Gosh there is so much to the mental side of things. So far, out of this one i'm learning that you need to commit to the things you don't want to commit to. That typically, when you opt not to climb something, when you're not "into it", that usually means you're afraid. That was an eye opener as i've caught msyelf a few times saying, " that route sucks, i'm not into it!" Well perhaps that was due to the fact that it was hard for me. Good revelation and humbling at the same time. YOu need to be honest with yourself...in every facit. If you want something...you can't just pick and choose what parts of it you want. You need to commit to all of it. Your weaknesses that cause you to turn the other cheek...well, no longer...stare your weakness down, showing it that it doesn't exist. Even if you don't succeed at your attempt to shut down your weakness, at least your trying and with persistance and motivation, eventually that weakness will no longer exist.

Facing your weaknesses is never easy. Whether in life or the sport you do, it's hard, but shutting your weakness down will lead to greater things...you just need to man up and stop making excuses.

sleeping in airports and rats running over me

2009-08-08T21:08:00.000-07:00

So it's been a bit since my last post. Life has been super crazy busy lately. Lots of climbing, a little bit of work, hangin' out with my girls, camping, and quite a bit of traveling. Tired. But good. Training has been going really good. It's been a different kind of focus as of lately. For me, climbing is amazing. So much to the point that i can lose focus and climb for the wrong reasons. It's so easy to get trapped into the thought process of, "I want to crush" and lose sight of why one really climbs. I climb because i love the feeling. The place it puts me. The drive that lurks beneath, the challenge it presents...and mostly...the mental state that it allows me to look deeper into. Lately, as per my coaches suggestion, i've been spending a lot of time just getting mileage in. At first it was a little frustrating as the routes i want to send...well they're right there...but not quite there. However now, though, i'm enjoying the mileage thing. I'm starting to see progress. I can hang on longer, i can hold onto smaller holds with less stress. It's working...and i'm psyched. It can be humbling to step back a bunch of grades...but in the end, it only makes you stronger.

One of the biggest things that i've been focusing on is the mental side of things. IT's gone pretty deep. It's hard. Scarey, and well even disturbing at times. But it's good...rrrreal good. The mental side of things is so important...more so than most of us give credit for. Digging deep doesn't mean eating more wheaties. It means having the ability to turn your mental state on and off at the drop of a dime. It means acting the part, so much to the point where even you begin to believe. IT's tough, super tough. But mental toughness plays 40% of your activities roll.

A couple of weeks ago i attended the Outdoor Retailer Show in Salt Lake City. It was cool, busy, lots going on. I enjoyed meeting with some of my sponsors as well as meeting other potential sponsors. Again, very busy place to be...but beneficial if you have direction and goals/purpose. From Salt Lake i then traveled to Vancouver to climb in Squamish for 4 days. But before arriving in Vancouver, my 8 hour lay over in Seattle led me to sleeping in the corner, on the ground, of the seattle airport. That's right...my layover took me through the night. So, i decided that i was man enough to find me a nice space on the floor and settle in for the night. It was weird...but kinda cool. Well, up until i was woken up at 4am by another brave sole who slept on the floor telling me that i had to get up and get in line. It was a rough night for sleep.

Arriving in Vancouver at 6am, despite the lack of sleep i was super psyched to climb in squamish. It's always good to get on different rock...it pushes you, changes you, forces you to think differently than on your normal local crag. It was humbling at first to get spanked, but then motivating to adjust and push back! 4 days of bouldering and sport climbing left my arms spent. From there, we drove 12 hours back to home.

4 days later i was off again with my buddy Justin up to the Valhalla's. 8 years ago he attempted the South Arete of Mt. Gimli and was turned away for various reasons. Well, we were back and we weren't leaving until unfinished business was settled (pic attached of what we sent). It was quite the experience from start to finish. Whether it was the rats running over our bivy's at night, waking up half way through the night on the ground (my sleeping pad popped), or even the mt. goats climbing up along side of us as we pushed up the route. The exposure, not to mention, was surreal. I loved it. It was hard, it challenged me mentally, but all in all an amazing experience...good company led to the summit and accomplishment of a great climb.

In amongst all of this, i was also gone for 10 days putting on what turned out to be the talk of the industry. I'm, along side my business partner, the director of a huge bike festival now in canada. The business of this event really pushed me beyond my normality. The dedication, the commitment, the lack of sleep, the focus. It was all very straining in many ways. But, it was successful to say the least. I guess that means it was worth it.

No more traveling for a bit. Got a bunch of stuff coming down the pipe in sept and on, but for now...home with my girls. Train train train.

God i Pray that my focus lays with you. That my eyes don't leave site of what it is that you have for me. So easily i can step out on my own, trying to do things my way...which always leads to destruction in some form or another. I pray that you would watch over me in amongst the business of life. I pray that you would keep me close, letting me know when things start to lose balance. I love you God, for who you are, and for what you are, what you represent, and what you stand for.

Amen

Deeper into the rabbit hole

2009-06-08T20:41:00.000-07:00

New thoughts, new places, new focus. Climbing has gotten deeper over the past while. Things have been changing, slowly but surely...realizations have been coming to the front line, allowing me to see how much deeper the rabbit hole goes.

I've been working on this climb for over a year. There's just something about it that kept bringing me back for a good spanking. Finally, this year, i was getting real close. So close i could taste it infact. However, it was still beating me. The route took on a different force against me. It enveloped me to the point that i stopped climbing (in a sense). I would show up to the crag, warm up (sorta) and then try to send. My focus was distorted. My rhythm was shaken. My climbing actually began to deteriorate. I was no longer training at the crag or having fun, only narrow minded stubbornness. This all lead to injury. Recently i was pushing so hard for this route that i ended up injuring myself. Retarded.

I've been working through a book that bases a lot of its content on mental toughness. This is something that has certainly been known as my nemesis. Working with Will Gadd (as my coach), he has definitely brought this topic into the light for me. It's tough, facing yourself in the mirror, truly seeing where you are with your desired passion. But once you come to accept your "current location", then it's really on. I can relate that to God and how He tells us that things are better in the light, then in the dark, as things in the darkness will dragg us down, hinder us, and eventually disable us permanently. Knowing and accepting where i'm at mentally has allowed me to really start working on my "disabilities". Climbing, and becoming a better climber can only happen when you focus on your weaknesses. It's your weaknesses that need focus and neglecting such things will cause you to platuea.

My whole life i've always thought that i could get by without really putting in a full effort. I've never really committed to all aspects of a thought up and dreamed of goal. When coaches have told me that i need to do certain things...nope...never really committed to all of it. Always did it half ass due to laziness. I liked the idea of most things...being able to attach myself to the label of a climber, or a kayaker, or a mountain biker. Sure, i was kinda good at theset things...but only because i'm a fairly fit dude who didn't mind puttin' his balls on the line. But it catches up to you. It starts to show when you start to push harder. You end up falling, almost drowning, getting hurt, etc. But all of a sudden, something happened. Climbing sparked something so big inside of me that i'm now willing to committ. I'm willing to listen to my coach. I'm willing to dig deep, to choose the red pill.

In working with Will, he's opened my mind to my thoughts and focus. Something really set in when talking about goals. When he asked me what my goals were...i said that i wanted to win a certain event. Right away, he told me to get off that horse as it will only hinder me. Basically he said...try not to show up to an event with the frame of mind, "i want to win". Instead, show up to an event fit enough to compete. IT makes total sense. You can't control what happens at an event. A hold can blow off, ice can break, tools can slip or break. All out of our control . But here's the thing, training your mind to think, "i'm strong and fit enough to compete", that's enough. Don't even think about "winning". Focus on having fun, climbing, and going as far as you can. I'm psyched.

I have a lot of work to do. I've been told where i need to be...and man alive...it's gonna be a tough road. I"m pumped to push, to train, to eat right, to run, stretch...all of it. However, I do know that still want my focus to be on God, then family...you know, then a bit of a work and climbing. My priorities need to stay in check. It's important.

I'm back into training mode. I need to focus on getting stronger, working on climbing...lots of routes, specific routes, not worrying about sending all the time. Gosh there's a lot to learn.

I love climbing...i love all parts of it...even the deep stuff that keeps you on the ground.

A new direction

2009-05-14T20:21:00.000-07:00

Climbing on rock has gotten off to a good start. I've been able to climb at different places, on different rock, with different people. So far, it's been a great experience. As of lately, though, i've begun to learn that i'm not using my fullest potential. I'm not committing myself in every area. I may be climbing stronger, but there are other things that i'm neglecting. For instance, stretching...man i'm the worst for stretching. And cardio...same story. Finally...mental...something that i have always struggled with. The mental side of things plays such a huge part, yet i turn the corner every time i'm faced with it. I find myself giving up if my head says "you can't do that". I find myself backing down when my mind says, "no way". Quite frankly, it pisses me off. Why don't i just try? Why don't i just go for it? So what if it's impossible...but what's impossible? Something we make up in our heads? A limitation that we create so that we don't have to try, so that we don't face failure?

"Train like your competing, compete like your training" Will Gadd.

Recently i was reading Will Gadd's blog and came across his cry for help regarding his website. I promptly replied offering my services, and after a few back and forth emails, i built him a website. It looks cool, check it out "www.willgadd.com". As i was building his website, working on his "coaching page" the thought of him coaching me crossed my mind. So i approached him with the idea, and again, after a few emails...he agreed to this new adventure. I feel as though he will add, or better yet, fill in the holes i keep falling into. As an athlete that has competed/climbed at a top level, he has a few things to offer and i'm psyched to learn. I'm excited and super motivated to learn more, to try harder, and to commit.

The first assignment that Will gave me was to pick up a book called, "The new toughness training for sports". Wow, the first chapter already has me super hooked. I'm intrigued so much that i can't put the book down. It's focus is exactly my aforementioned issues. Mostly, the mental side. There's so much to learn on how to focus your mental state into a mode that will push you further, that will allow you to use your entire potential...not just some of it.

Climbing, where it's at with me now, i just want to get better, and i'm willing to push...to listen...and to try harder...on all fronts. I believe that i can do this keeping my life relative. Yes, climbing plays a huge role, however my family, God, they still must come first.

Being coached by Will, I think it will help me reach my goals that I have long dreamed of. Not necessarily to be the best, or to win competitions, but to understand my mental state...and how to control it while performing an athletic endeavor.

mental illness

2009-04-24T09:17:00.000-07:00

Over the past 2 years, climbing has become something that continues to grow inside of me. Like the little alien that bursts out of the dudes stomach in "Spaceballs", just like climbing is pushing to get out of me...every chance it gets. The more focused i get, the more i want to be on the rock, or ice for that matter. This spring has proven to be a strong start to the rock season. I feel a lot stronger than in previous years and am more focused than ever before. I guess I just want it real bad, to climb harder grades, get to new places with different rock/routes, and just plain old be a stronger climber.

Last week I got my nuts chopped! The ol' "Snip Snip". It's all good, i'm cool with the idea. But what was hard was sitting on the couch and not moving for three days. I gained 8lbs and was not impressed. Mentally, it was killin' me, especially because before the surgery i was really close to sending my project. Naturally, during my "time off" all i could think about was the route. Every move, going over them in my head, making sure that i didn't miss a hold. It was like i was climbing it every 10 minutes. I almost felt a sense of success i was so into it (in my mind that is). After 3 days of rest i decided that enough was enough. I got my gear together, waddled to the truck and drove to the project. Naturally, even walking to the cragg it was super sore, never mind strappin' into my harness and saddling up for an intense climb. Well, i barely made it past the warm up routes, but still focused and driven towards the proj. Getting on it was purely a bad idea. Working my way up the route, everything hurt from the waist down. Not a good day to try and send my project.

The project never happened, however i did sort a couple of moves out, making it easier for the sending attempts to come. From this experience, i learned that my head is mentally in the game. That i am driven and focused and that i really do want to push harder in this sport. I love climbing, no matter what the situation is, what the conditions are, and what limitations i may have.

ps. It snowed 10cm's yesterday but we still went out. The night of climbing was cold and there was snow on the ground, however it was still a great outting and good for training.

(Here's a video that was made for 3 ball climbing holds)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0KDJVFp9rw

Good start

2009-04-06T14:01:00.000-07:00

The weather has begun to change...finally. After a long winter of wicked climbing i'm totally stoked on the sun coming out...and it being above zero degrees. I went out to my local cragg yesterday and had a stellar day. With gym climbing all winter, you never really know where you're going to end up at the start of the "outdoor" rock climbing season. But yesterday totally showed me that all the gym climbing was a step in the right direction. Everything felt good. I sent my project in three trys, did tones of laps on harder routes and left with a sense of confidence and excitement at the fact that i'm feeling strong and it's only the beginning. My determination and focus has grown dramatically. I'm stoked to see all the new climbers that are appearing out of no-where that are stoked. Although a cluttered cragg can sometimes be a bit...um...well a bit much...but needless to say, i'm still super pumped on climbing and it's continual growth in my community.

Over the past year i've learned a lot about progression, safetey, and straight up respect and responsibility in the climbing world. And with learning these finer aspects...I'm now seeing more and more climbers practicing unsafe techniques as well as rushing into various levels of climbing too fast. If you have found the love of climbing that many of us experience...before you get all psyched to go and lead your first outdoor route...start with the basics first. Get some experience, hang out with friends who are stronger climbers and learn from them. Read lots, but don't over analize every word you read. Heck, i started lead climbing in my bedroom, on the floor. That's right, i hooked my draws up to everything in sight...just practicing, placing, unclipping 'till my fingers hurt. Get the miles in...reach the point where you feel comfortable in clipping in any condition or position. Top rope lots doing moch leads. And once your finally ready to lead...lead something you can walk up. Also, belaying...for those beginners...practice practice practice. And don't hold your hand up in the air with the "brake" side of the rope when your climber is climbing. Common mistake i've run into a few times as of lately.

In climbing, practice the basics lots. If you're confused...ask someone with experience. There are many resources out there that would be willing to lend a hand. Don't rush things...that's how people die. Climbing takes a lot of respect. Eearn it, but don't try to own it.

It's never an easy time

2009-03-27T22:14:00.000-07:00

It's been a tough year with so many deaths. It seems that every where you look, read or hear, there's one more story about someone dying. It's hard. Real hard. It's the type of situation we cringe at...and even worse when we knew the person(s), it just about breaks us. This past summer i had a good friend die whilst climbing. It was the first time that someone had died whom i knew, while climbing. I was confused, and worse off...when i found out i was actually on a climbing trip. My headspace instantly went down hill...top speed. Amongst my confusement i resorted to calling a friend of mine who's been in the climbing scene for a long time. He mentioned that from some of his friends dying while climbing, it's the only situation that has made him contemplate quitting climbing for good. It hurts to move on sometimes. Our body, mind, and soul battle the will. But as I've begun to learn...it's His will that pushes us forward. It's His love that endures us forever.

We don't understand why people die, especially when it's premature. So many questions entangle us that we soon become trapped in our mental destruction. As humans, we always want to know "why?" We push and push and push, trying to figure out why it happened. But here's the thing...we'll never know why. It's not meant for us to know. It's a hard thing to accept but we must do so. I recently read a book called "The Shack". Same deal, sad death takes place..it's heart stopping infact. And above all, it's not fair. But it still happened. The story basically depicted the lack of trust, and then gaining of trust into God's love for us. A man lost his daughter. She was taken from him...and he was pissed. He blamed God for not caring...for letting it happen. But in the end, he knew that God was a good God, and that He did care, and still does for that matter. It's hard...infact it's supernatural-to trust God that is- in such dire straights. His love is so much more powerful than we could ever imagine. That's what we need to hold on to...and never let go...especially when the rubber hits the road. It's all we have when it feels as though we have nothing. He's always there, and he'll lift us back up. He can carry any load. It's not our load to carry.

You see, getting through "it" is one thing...but trusting that there's a greater plan to follow, that He can bring good out of anything...that's the real litmiss test. "Even when we don't understand, still find the trust in such hardship, because eventually...He will make the path straight again".
Don't worry about the past, forget about the future...and just focus on today...for today has enough of it's own things to focus on. We have our family, our friends, our community...and when we don't have those things...He's still there...holding his hand out, encouriging us to take it...that it's going to be ok. Because it will be ok...no matter how long it takes.

A lot of people are in a place of sorrow right now...whether it be from the local who was taken in an avalanche (in Kimberley, BC), or the family and friends of Shane McConkey (pro skier) who passed away from a base jumping accident. It's certainly a time of sorrow, but also an opportunity to come together and celebrate the loss of great people. It's a time where trust must be there...trust in the greater plan. Trust that His love is far greater than we could ever comprehend...that Good will come from tragedy.

Death is hard. There's no question about it. But raise your heads and know, that "Good" is just around the corner, waiting and ready for you.

This is just a rant. I have no idea who will read this. It's merely an encouragement for those who feel lost right now...or at any time, whether past or in the future.

Keep your heads high.

Red and windy...as the hunger grows.

2009-03-25T18:42:00.000-07:00

Driving all through the night, the van packed tight with no room at all, just the two of us with a mission ahead. We were on our way to Vegas. Our plan was to drive all through the night, no stops, no rests...just give 'er. It's kinda like trying to hold a pee in the middle of the night...eventually you end up surrendering. As with our big idea of driving non-stop, we ended up making a few pit stops here and there. But we were motivated. We were stoked. We were going to Red Rocks National Park.

After a long drive, with many epics along the way (like driving backwards, back up an off ramp), we finally made it to Las Vegas, in one piece none the less. I was impressed. I thought for sure we weren't going to make it. But we did and we were ready for some great climbing.

Over the course of 6 days we managed to climb at some of the most fantastic spots in Vegas. The trophy wall, the Pier, Secret 13, the Wake up wall, and more. Vibrant Red rock glaring from the sun...as if it were on fire from the high temps encompassing it. I'd never seen anything like it. By far my favorite place that we climbed at was the Trophy Wall. Super steep and super fun. Nice long routes, pumpy moves, and wicked sequences all over. Although the trip was not focused as a "sending trip", we did manage to bag a few fun 12's and work on a few 13's. It was definitely a great start to what's going to be a stellar season.

The last couple of days were dedicated to helping out at the Red Rocks Rendevouz. The RRR is a climbing festival that played host to many top climbers from all over the world, lending their skills to those who want to learn and push. I was able to experience this event by supporting my sponsors as well as teach clinics to enthusiastic beginners. It was fun. Tiring but fun. It's always, also, good to see your fellow climbers; chat, hang out, and share our latest adventures that surround our every day lives.

All in all the trip was amazing. Well except for the night where my tent was getting blown around like a kite in the sky. The winds reached up to 70mph and lets just say that when your tent comes un-pegged...it wasn't a restful sleep. More like being in a little sail boat out in the ocean enduring a raging storm! I'm so over the tent thing. BRING ON THE TRAILER!

On my trip home i had a lot of time to reflect on my climbing. I think with this trip I became even more motivated. Climbing with so many talented athletes I realized that i have a lot of "stepping it up" to do. It really comes down to focusing and committing. It's hard. Really hard sometimes. But I want it. I can feel how deep it goes. I have a lot of passion for it and am willing to drive towards my goals. Training plays a huge part in ones climbing capabilities. If you want to climb hard - you need to train hard. It takes serious dedication. I love it.

I'm excited about the upcoming rock season. I feel stronger but know that i have a ways to go to reach my goal of climbing 13's consitantly. It's ok though. I feel it's within reach...I just need to push harder. It's cold here in Cranbrook still. Huge difference from what it was in Vegas. Almost makes me want to go out and climb more ice. Not sure, but whatever form of climbing happens to capture my attention at any given moment...i'm in!

I recently discovered a new chunk of rock near by. Could be great. Gonna start focusing on that as it looks like there's a tone of potential for lots of new routes. Game on!

It's early for rock, but temps are rising, rock is getting warmer. Goals have been set and a driving force within is reaching and grabbing for success. I love and live climbing.

Somewhere out there

2009-02-21T13:03:00.000-08:00

As the seasons begin to change, so has been with my focus. From cold to warm to hot, my thought process has been slowly transforming into rock climbing. It's been weird though...this has definitely been the best year i've had for mixed, but i can feel rock climbing tugging at my sleeve. I've recently begun to learn that within each part of climbing comes a specific need. It's hard to climb strong in mixed and ice, then into the various aspects of rock. Whether trad, sport, bouldering, big wall...they all have their specific needs...and if you want to be a part of them, you need to adhere to their needs.

The art of bouldering has caught my attention as of lately. IT's amazing watching the top sort through these crazy problems filled with stupidly powerful moves. The creativity, the focus, the strength...it's amazing to witness. I'm not there yet, but my goal is to focus on the training side for bouldering...basically to allow me to be a better all around climber. Competing has a way to allow you to learn from others...observing, practicing...just being able to get on some National and World level boulder problems...it really is a great learning curve and experience.

Lately, my friend and I have been developing a new mixed climbing destination. It's actually pretty darn amazing. The routes are just about 30m long and super fun. Anything from M5 WI3 to M9 WI5...wicked. I love it. It's been great to finally give back to the climbing community by putting up new routes. I've always been so focused on climbing, that i'd never put time back into the sport. It's a sense of accomplishement really. Now, we have this canyon full of ice climbs as well as a total of 8 mixed climbs (and lots more on the way). I was actually on the M8+-9 the other day...super fun...13 bolts worth in length and really steep and sustained the whole way...rad! I was at about the 10th bolt when my tool skated off and i went for a big whipper. Initially, as most would, i screamed...but gathering myself all was ok. I'm headed back to this climb tomorrow to send it and put that to rest.

As seasons change, so does your direction. I'm stoked for the upcoming rock season as i have a few projects to get back to. I'm excited to climb hard and send some difficult routes. I'm learning and loving it. Everything is an experience...it just depends how you use it for your "next time".

Injuries, resting and training

2009-01-28T22:36:00.000-08:00

At the moment i'm dealing with some injuries that i've neglected to focus on. I guess i've been so wrapped up in training and trying to get stronger, that i didn't want to stop. Well, now it's time to ease off a bit. My elbow (what seems to be on the inside-thought it was outside, but definitely inside) and shoulder are starting to ache quite a bit. I've talked with a few people and gotten some good advice to how i should address this. Basically, i've been told not to stop using my arm, but to lay off pulling hard on it. I'm also going to try out some physio and massage therapy...and of course try to ice both joints consistantly. We'll see how this goes.

Training has become addictive. I guess i have such a crazy drive to get better with my climbing, to get stronger, and to push further...that i just want to keep going. I'm reading a great book right now by Eric J. Horst called, "Conditioning for climbing". It's got a lot of great stuff on how to build your personalized training program. Very informative and super specific if you need it to be. There's lots of great material out there but be careful that you don't try to read it all and do it all. Listen to your body, focus on your weaknesses and make sure to take the appropriate rest days. Maybe i should listen to my own words.

Good ol' Home Depot

2009-01-24T13:58:00.000-08:00

As I've found, over the past couple of years...Home Depot is not only a great place to buy stuff for home building etc. but it's also a key destination for killing time with the kids. Think about it–things hanging from everywhere, lots of colours...and most importantly, lots of stuff to pull at. I love home depot.

Anyways. So we were down at the Bull River Gorge yesterday and put up some new routes. This place, i gotta tell ya, is perking up to be a sick "local" destination. There's routes from M5 to M8+, WI2-WI5. It even has a walk out now. What more could you ask for.

Myself and a friend put up some new routes yesterday which turned out to be super fun. A little steep to add a bit of spice, but "good value" as my friend would say. As we finished putting up those routes, our minds began to open to further possibilities. It's becoming endless down there. As long as mother nature can keep the water level down (as there's a big river flowing beneath your pretty much every step) this place will continue to rock for a good portion of the season.

Climbing seems to be still going for me. I thought that once i was back from Ouray, that I would slow down a bit. Nope, sure isn't the case. I just want to get stronger. I have a project that i want to attempt in late Feb so training shall continue on. I'm actually beginning my rock training now too. I'm super psyched about the rock season that's coming up. Mostly i'm psyched about climbing in warmer weather. Yesterday we stuck the whole day out in -20ish. It was cold. I'm ready for warm weather climbing.

Keep pushin'

Game Day

2009-01-16T17:37:00.001-08:00

Woke up at 3am, thinking that it was go time. I was wrong. Back to sleep. Up at 7-no more sleep for me. My nerves were racing top speed. Because Mark Beverly (my roomate) drew 6th position to go, i told him that i would warm him up. So we headed to last years comp route and did some laps. Both of us were feeling good. A bit of shakiness was haunting the two of us, but by our third lap each..things were settling down.

It's amazing how intense it can get when you're waiting. The waiting game is such a mind bender. It's all you can do to not think about it, yet your entire body consumes the idea of what's about to happen.

After several hours of wandering around it was finally time for me to rap into the canyon for my turn at the 2009 Ouray Ice Festival Competition. At this point i knew that there was no turning back, that now was the time to put all my eggs into one basket. All the training, sessioning (thanks to all who belayed me), all the workouts...everything came down to this.

Tying into the rope...flip that was scarey enough, never mind the gigantic climb that layed ahead. I started up the ice with gitters. I was nervous. We were topped rope by a belayer that awaited our arrival in the cave above. This years route required the competitor to climb up a 60ft pillar of ice. It wasn't hard, but you didn't want to fall off on the ice as that was the easy pary.

Arriving at the cave mid way i was glad to have not fallen. It took me a little longer than usual on the ice, but thats' always the way with me–i'm definitely not a speed ice climber. So the cave, where we started the second section of the climb was intense. You didn't look straight at the rock, you looked above and behind. The cave started you off right away inverted. The rock ran out about 60ft completely upside down. It was so crazy. As i began my journey outwards i moved with precision. Every placement, carefully put in such a way as though i were juggling eggs...with delicacy. What i didn't realize, but later found out about, is that i was climbing fast. Quite fast infact. I was moving quickly with confidence. Clip after clip i was making headway. I knew some of the previous competitors had fallen off before where i was now, so i stoked. But then it happened. What looked like a solid hold turned out to be nothing and i pealed off. Down i went. The second i fell, for a moment i was bumbed...but then realized..i had nothing to be dissapointed about as i had made it quite far...with energy still flowing. I knew that if i had have stayed on...i could have gone way further. That was enough for me.

As i was lowered down, i held my head high as my climb was solid. I learned a lot in that 12 minutes...enough so that going back next year to podium is on the forefront of my climbing goals. Ouray Ice Festival offers an opportunity to grow...to climb hard, and to experience what some dream of. I'm living my dream, climbing amongst the elite. Competing with some of the elite, and keeping up with the elite. I'm stoked. All my training has lead me into a new realm of climbing. I later found out that i had placed 9th. I was really excited about that as my goal was to hit top 10. For next year though, i'll be gunning for a podium spot. Side note: What's funny, with the Ouray ice fest...if you fall off the competition route...they make you climb out this rediculousy long pillar of ice...like i'm talking over 100ft. It's grueling. You don't want to fall off because everyone is still sort of watching. Yikes!

After a chilled day of climbing on the last day, a great dinner with the team, and a long day of traveling home...getting to home base was nice. I learned a tone this year, met some amazing people, Mark, Stephen Koch, Andreas, the Petzl crew, Max Turgeon and Zoe, and many more.

I"ve been resting for the past few days which has been nice. But it's time to get back at 'er. THere's still ice and rock to climb and many lines to send. What a year it's been so far. My goals, now, I think are to start looking at the world cup circuit for next year. If i continue my training, there's a possibility that i might be able to compete at that level. Who knows though, but i'm psyched!

Keep at what you love and keep your eyes focused on what matters. Because at the end of the day, He only wants what's best for us.

Day 3

2009-01-08T21:00:00.000-08:00

Today was interesting. We went to a cave out of town and sessioned for most of the day. I struggled with the same problem off the bat, but with Mark's encouragement, i settled down. The cave roof was long and sick. Completely inverted for what seemed like a long ways. By my third attempt on it i was making good progress. My fourth attempt i climbed very strong. I was psyched. All it took was someone telling me to breathe slower and to settle down. I was really tense, nervous, and not thinking. It's ok though...as this is all about learning. Every year is a step forward. I must say though, dealing with how strong the other competitors are, it's tough...as they are in a whole other league. But that's ok...because i will only get stronger by climbing with these amazing athletes.

The support and encouragement has been amazing amongst all the competitors. I mean, 20 of the best climbers in the world are here competing and all of them are super great with pumping each other up. It's all about "crushing it" as most climbers would say, and they're all quick to give you that boost.

Tomorrow is rest day. My wife arrives tomorrow which i'm really stoked about. Having her here will create a whole other dynamic. Now i have to climb harder...haha. But yeah, rest day. Gonna go for a walk, work on my breathing, hang out at a couple of my sponsors' tents and just chill. Focus. Focus focus focus...and eating with drinking lots of water.

Bedtime. Tomorrow is a new day. But i need not worry about that until tomorrow as "today has enough of its own stuff to worry/think about"-God (paraphrased).

gm

It's on!

2009-01-07T16:28:00.000-08:00

Back in the hotel now, down from a big first day. Started off nervous...tryin' to "find my feet". But after a few climbs, i settled down. It was good. Hooked up with a lot of strong climbers (pros) which was good as i learned a lot. It's becoming more and more about the experience, more so than the actual comp. Learning, listening on all fronts...and just having fun. It's been really great hooking up with Mark Beverly (another petzl climber/guide). He's been great in "showing me the ropes". Always helps to have someone in your corner.

The atmosphere is sorta intense. A lot of the climbers are a little over intense and stressed. Kind of a weird vibe. All good though. I need to stay focused on my game plan. I can't spend too much time, if any at all, worrying about what others do. I've trained in a way that works for me. If i mess with that, my whole game plan will go down the toilet. So that's been interesting, because naturally, my first climb...i was like "let's do this", not knowing how hard it really was. Turned out it was hard. That for sure didn't help me. So i backed down and got on something a little easier to warm up on. Which, funny enough, turned out to be pretty hard and pumpy too. But whatev. After that, things started to come together. So all in all, not a bad first day. Struggled a bit with my breathing, which does not help at this altitude (8000ft-ish). It's amazing how that alt. can affect your breathing. So it's good to get out, allowing my body to adjust, and get my wings flapping.

Tomorrow is a new day. Supposed to be going to this sick big cave that's unreal. I'm down for some intense "cranking". I love climbing.

Well, off to dinner. Need to eat. That's another thing that i slacked on today–eating. Gotta do better with that tomorrow. Drank lots of redbull though...haha.

More tomorrow.

Day 1

2009-01-07T07:36:00.000-08:00

So i'm here. Ouray Colorado. It's intense. Climbers everywhere. People are psyched. People are stoked. People are climbing hard. I was lucky to hook up with some pros from Petzl and Patagonia so that's been good. Not on my own. Went for dinner with them last night, got to know them...climbing with them today. PUmped! Just having breakfast now. Trying to get my head settled. It's hard not to get nervous as pressure is building. However i'm really excited to climb and gain more experience by learning from others and working harder on technique etc. Today i'm going to climb pretty hard but not pushing limits as my shoulder is still "pissing me off". It's all good though...just need to take it easy. The comp this year is wide open. What i mean by that is that everyone seems to be round about the same level. Everyone climbs hard and is willing to push for a podium spot. I pray to God that he injects a little something so that i can climb harder then ever before.

More to come after climbing.

early mornings and country music

2009-01-06T04:44:00.000-08:00

First of all, let's start off with...I'm not a big fan of country music. So add that to a super heated van with country music blaring, and all this at 4:45am–not my idea of a "good start". However the morning was saved when the flight attendant (at the airport) waived my "overweight" fees on my baggage. How cool is that. Packing 100lbs of climbing gear into one bag, as well as way too much clothing in another...it was only going to lead to mega "extra" charges. But, thankfully, people out there do care.

So now, i'm sitting in the airport, super early in the morning...killing time.

I got an email from Conrad Anker. Apparently he's MC'ing the ouray ice fest. this year. That's really cool. And what makes it even more unique is that he's requested a "play list" from all the competitors. So we (as a competitor) get to rock out to our own music when we're trying to send the competition route. He's basically asked for 3-4 songs that "define" us. I'm actually having a bit of a tough time with this as there is so much music that has been so influential, it's a tough call! I think, though, that i'm going to pick music that's meaningful, that's had impact on my life, but on the slightly "heavier" side. There's nothing like "pick me up" music to get you through the intense moments. So, here are my songs: 1. Absolute by Thousand Foot Crutch 2. Skillet (can't remember the song name...but all their stuff is good) 3. Daft Punk: harder, better, faster, stronger 4. Haven't decided yet...perhaps somethin nice and heavy as at this point it will be makin' or breakin'. It's funny how music has the ability to lift us up. There's a mixed cd that a friend once upon a time made for me. I've found that over the years, in times of sorrow, excitement, growth, or whatever, by playing this cd, it always has and will send chills up my spine. I love when the Holey Spirit is all around me. Every song is amazing. Such fulfillment by listening. I guess that's what it's all about...listening. "Every man should be quick to listen, and slow to speak..." Anyways, just rambling now.

I'm 7 hrs away from arriving to Ouray. Funny thing is, i'm not that nervous. I'm confident. I'm excited. Well, maybe a little nervous too...but not that much! Which is really great. I'm looking forward to having a lot of fun. Kinda like when last night i got in a food fight at the restaurant we were eating at. Thank you Travis and Derek. Wow, it was like being 12 again. Prior to our dinner, we spent 4 hours at the local Sports center. We climbed for about 3 hrs which was really great. All of us had a great work out all the while climbing hard and having a great time. Good session and great company. After climbing we opted to play some ping pong. Also great session and a total SLAYING i might add. Love ping pong.

3 days until go time. 3 days until all my training, focus, excitement, all of it...down to the moment. A moment that i've been waiting for since this very day last year. I'm stoked. Thanks to everyone for their prayer and support.

More to come.

gm

Know your gear and when your over-training

2008-12-23T21:05:00.001-08:00

There's something to be said about gear; when it's new, when you've had it for years, or when you're going out to buy it. I've used a lot of gear, and over the years have learned that, the more you get to know your gear, the more confident you are when it counts. Take ice axes for instance...when you're half way up a climb, nice and steep, when water is "spraying" down into your face, blinding you from any site of your next placement...you need to be able to swing those axes and tell when your pick is sunk to the hilt or when it's barely hangin' on. With new axes it's hard to tell their reaction. Same goes with crampons. I had a bad experience with a brand new pair of crampons. Silly things blew off half way up a climb. Definitely human error, but i would have known if they were properly set or not if i knew a bit about them. I guess what i'm tryin to say is: get to know your gear before you put it to the test during an intense moment.

Next topic: Over-training. I've been reading up on training a lot lately. Whether mental or physical...both count just as much as the other. When the mental side of things starts to come into play, overt-training can soon follow. Your mind can play tricks on you, telling you that you need to keep pushing, don't worry about the pain. Well such things aren't true. When your body is starting to hurt...it's a fine line that you're walking on if you keep pushing. I think over the past month I've been over-training. My right arm is starting to hurt pretty good. Advil has become my friend...but i certainly don't want to start relying on that. I took a day off and trained tonight...kept 'er easy...more working on technique than anything. I did however throw a few power moves into my session, but again, i think that was due to the mental side. I watched a short vid online of someone last year at the Ouray ice festival. They were pulling a roof of ice doing a figure four move. Naturally, seeing that i wanted to go out and test my strength in my climbing gym. So, i did the move and now my arm hurts. As i sit hear typing away...i'm thinking to myself, "you know you could do the move, you really didn't have to go out there and do it." That's the mental side. If you concentrate, you know what your body is capable of, just buy asking it, or thinking about it. Deep inside, we know ourselves a lot better than we lead on out in the open.

Training is a very scientific method of progression that takes very precise concentration. Over doing it can lead to becoming weaker than you started. Be careful, read up on what you want to accomplish and how you plan on getting there. It's important.

All aside, training is going good. Just working on a bit of technique right now. I'm as strong as i'm going to be for the Ouray event. I need to come to terms with that, and focus now on the event itself.

I love climbing.

Head space

2008-12-16T20:17:00.000-08:00

For the past few days my headspace has been a total battle. Trying not to focus on what other climbers are doing, trying not to think about how strong climbers are. It's killin' part of me. It's a struggle to not think about your opponents. How they train, how they climb, what they climb. Sometimes it feels as though you should be training every second of every day, no rest...just balls to the wall. But we all know how that would reek havok on your body. You need rest days. When something is sore, you've gotta listen or typically whatever is sore, will hinder you further.

The other night, i was watching a movie. Knowing that i trained at the gym during the day, for a while, kept my mindset at bay. I knew that i had a good workout so i really didn't need to climb later in the evening. But as the movie went on, it started to eat away at me. So much to the point where i still wanted to go outside to the climbing gym at 11:30 (in -30degree weather). I couldn't handle it. Luckily i came to my senses...sort of, and went and did some chinups, dead hangs, and lock offs in the gear room (on my chinup board). But you see, i still struggle with the mental side. Ouray is only two weeks away now, and headspace is really kickin' in. Training is almost at the point now where I'm as strong as i'm going to be. It's more, now, refining my technique. I really need to focus on that part now. Not so much, "I've gotta do more pull ups, more laps, more...etc." I know that i'm stronger than ever before with my mixed climbing. My confidence level is definitely up. Now it's time to battle against the mental game.

I've learned a lot about competing over the past couple of years. Experience certainly engages success. Headspace allows for succes when one is in the right mind set. Never mind what others are doing, eating, saying, drinking. Stick to your game plan. Stick to your mind set.

I just got in from a session in the climbing gym. It's -25 degress out. Cold. But it's good. However i did take a fall from the top of the gym down onto my back. Thank goodness for soiled mattresses. haha. The fall was big, but all turned out to be ok. IT was actually a good thing to take that fall. It only builds more confidence as it wasn't all that bad. The gym session was solid. I'd like to push a little harder next time (in a couple of days), but all in all happy with training tonight.

Smoking chimneys

2008-12-14T07:59:00.000-08:00

This morning, as i walked into the kitchen, i went to check the thermometer out on the back deck. Just before i looked at it, i noticed out the back window all the chimneys smoking. What I also noticed was that I was looking through this little spot in the window to see outside, as the rest of the window was frozen over. Right then i thought to myself, nope...no i don't want to look at what the temp. is. Naturally i looked anyways and sure enough...cold. Cold cold and more cold. Winter is full on now. No more + degree weather, no more light jackets, no more, "oh it's not that cold outside."

I'm going climbing today. Most of me doesn't want to. I think i'd rather stay home where it's warm and hang out with my daughters. But i guess it's these times that define the difference between whether or not you really "want it". Yes, it's cold out..and yes i'm sure i'll get multiple cases of "screaming barfies" but, to be strong you must push on.

I read a friends blog the other day that was entitled "inspiration". He basically talked about where he finds inspiration. I'm definitely not as philosophical as he is, however i was able to relate with my inspirational outlets. First and foremost i find my inspiration from God. He's the one that gives me the strength at the end of the day. Inspiration comes from His perfect plans. Second...The Late Christopher Reeves, as he was and still is, in my mind, Superman. My wife definitely inspires me with her passion and strength for our family and God. Oswald Chambers has indwelled many inspiring and life changing words into myself with this book "My utmost for his highest". In the athletic world, Wayne Gretzky, Ronaldinio, Will Gadd, Alex Lowe, Lynn Hill, and Steve House. These athletes are bad ass. They're strong not only in there discipline, but also mentally. Their passion, their motivation, their strength...it makes you want to try harder. And lastly, my dad. He inspires me all the time. The life changes that he has undertaken, leading him to such a better life...it motivates me more and more to be just like him. Which is ironic, as any child always denies the fact that they want to be like their parents.

Well, time to get layered up...as much as possible. With hot packs from head to toe. Only 3 weeks until Ouray. Got some work to do, but well on my way to being where i want to be for that competition.

Never stop trying at what it is that drives your passion.

A turn for the better

2008-12-13T06:58:00.000-08:00

For the last week or so, the weather has been a touch too warm. Myself and two others tried giving our local ice climbing area a go, but we ended up just picking our way vertically through frozen moss. Typically by this time of year the Bull River Canyon, Cranbrook, B.C is full on. Not this year I guess. We were able to sink our picks into a bit of ice, but really, not enough to get super excited. But with good news, a week later, the weather has turned for the worse. Or i guess from an ice climbers perspective, for the better. The temps have dropped to a degree of "wow, it's actually pretty cold out."

This past week of training has been good. Still pushing pretty hard which has been inspiring to keep going. A couple of days ago, myself and a buddy hooked up with Will Gadd and had a crankin' day at Haffner Creek. Haffner has to be one of the best places to train (doing laps) due to the steepness and variety of climbs. Keepin' up to Will was also certainly good for the ol' arms because every other move he was screamin', "come one, campus that, campus to the next 'jug'." It was a good day. I climbed a couple of M8+'s, an M7 and an M5...with no difficulty. At the end of the day I was working on an M9, but my arms were way too tired to pull hard. I'm ok with that though. If you were at a rock climbing crag about to attempt your project, you're not going to go and climb 4 pumpy routes prior to your attempt. You'd typically just do a warm up or two, then go for it. So what i realized is that, when you get to M9, don't go and climb a whole bunch of routes first. I need to be fresh and confident at that level. I know I can climb it no problem...just not after a full day of climbing other stuff (and by climb, I mean, either onsight or redpoint without difficulty). This last climb of the day also enabled me to see what i needed to work on and strengthen.

Upon my return from mixed climbing I totally forgot that a photographer was coming over to take pics of the climbing gym. My arms were tired, i was tired. "Just hang there for a sec. Actually, hold on, can you keep that pose for a couple?" Yikes, i thought i was going to blow off from the roof of my gym and land on my head. It was all good though. This photographer was keen and quite talented. We ended up getting so great shots of the gym (not an easy task due to being a "tight fit") and everyone was happy.

Climbing with people who are stronger than you is always beneficial. You learn better technique, how to improvise outside the box. You learn to push harder, and how to focus more on the task at hand. I've begun meeting other climbers who climb at a level that i enjoy pushing at. It's enabled me to learn more. Getting to a top level is never easy, thus drawing from resources that enable such goals to be reached. Hangin out with the best is a prime example.

The snow is on the ground now. Winter has set in. The steady flow of water has now turned to climbable ice. The season is on. Ouray is 3 weeks away. I have 21 days (ish) to refine the last minute details in my climbing. It feels good to be climbing confidently. I'm stoked. Training for the next few days will be more focused...pressuring my body in the areas that need to be "tightened".

Climbing is amazing. It's a sport that allows you to exert all your energy in such a way that when you're done, you really have nothing left. But when motivated, even in the state of despair, you keep going. Even when your body is exhausted, hurting, you still go out and fix bad technique, or work on certain moves that beat you the day before. It's a sport of community and growth. I love to climb.

smashed records and numb arms

2008-12-02T19:11:00.000-08:00

New record. 45 minutes without stopping. Up, down, all around, figure fours, figure nines, dead hangs. Continuous movement. Breathing. Focus. Super pumped. Can't feel my arms but stoked about the new record. Had a big climb on sunday, took monday off, today worked out hard at the gym and tonight slayed my old record of 35 minutes. Good day. Tired now. Tomorrow, back to the gym. 50 minutes is the new goal. One month to get it.

early bird does infact get the worm

2008-12-01T06:41:00.000-08:00

5:30am start, 2-3hr approach. Shut down. It was saddening, yet...motivating. As we looked up, focusing on a party that was already on our chosen route of the day, we realized...wow...we got here way too late. At that point we thought our day was done. Suddenly, we had a new idea. Lets just go back down, traverse over and do professor falls. According to my partners interpretation of difficulty, he figured, up and down in a couple of hours. That was of course based on regular season conditions. We, however, did not find this five pitch route in reg. season conditions. It was thin, chandeliery, and all in all, just down right sketchy. Every pitch was technical. Every move was a thought out process. But every pitch, we went up. Rock, ice, falling ice, falling rock, putting our feet on anything that felt some what solid. It was wicked!

We were definitely the first ones up this route for this season. What is typically a grade 3-4 route, for us, ended up being a 3,4,5 route. At the top of the 5th pitch we were stoked, and relieved, oh, and also super tired. I think from bottom to top it took us 3+hrs.

After a long rap down, a super long walk out in the dark we arrived back at the cars by 6:30. 13hrs car to car. Long day I must say. Conclusion: Leave at 4:30am next time, and move closer to the good ice. Driving home for 3hrs after a 13hr day of climbing...not my idea of fun.

getting close

2008-11-24T17:27:00.000-08:00

It's been 2 weeks now since i broke my finger. So far, total drag, however it is getting better. I was out yesterday at our local crag (lakit lake) doing some laps (as if i was on rock at the end of November) and it felt pretty good. Still a tad tender but definitely feeling way better. Training is still going really well. I for sure am way stronger than last year which is motivating. Only 43 days until the Ouray Ice festival. It seems weird that my goals is top 10 but at the same time one must set goals at a level that seems unthinkable, because that's when the unthinkable is usually attained.

The climbing gym in my backyard has proved to be really helpful. Without it, i certainly wouldn't be training as much. The plan was for it to provide me training until ice started to form. Well flip, it's like spring out right now. There's no snow or ice in the Kootenays. It just means for me to climb ice i have to get up to Alberta (apparently their weather system is better than ours). I was out on ice last weekend up Kananaskis country. Great early season ice up Ranger Creek. Totally packed with people, but heck, i'll take anything at this point, even if it means climbing up a mountain and waiting in the windy cold, snowy bowl in line for getting on a climb.

Training is hard. To stay committed is hard. But for some reason that is beyond me...i'm still going. I still want it. Beat my record again with continuous movement in the gym at 35min48sec. Goal is getting closer. 40min isn't that far away.

Broken but not beaten

2008-11-12T22:44:00.000-08:00

The other day my brother-in-law was feelin' a bit domesticated...so i thought i'd take him out to the bush so that we could be men. And what better way to show that your a man than to throw big rocks off a cliff. Come on, we all love doing it. Anyways, as we were performing this manly act, a large boulder slipped out of my hand and crushed one of my fingers. Naturally i let out a somewhat girlish scream in agony. Thinking, as usual, "oh no big deal" i tried to ignore it...until i bumped it on the car door. Again, i then yelled. I knew something was wrong. Later that night, amused by the colour of my finger, being purple and yellow, i decided to go to the hospital and get it checked out. Yup, a big 'ol crack across the bone at the tip of my finger. Let me tell ya, it does wonders for rock climbing. However, all has not been lost. I can still hold onto my ice axes and crank just as hard. It just hurts a "touch" when doing so.

I was at a fundraiser tonight, supporting a guy who's going across Canada to raise awareness on this gnarly desease he has. Basically, his organs are turning to "stone". So Loki stepped up to support "Scott" on his venture across the country, outfitting him with all the apparel he needs to stay warm and safe. It was great to speak at this gala as it was inspiring and encouraging. Coming home the rain was turning me off from going outside and training in the gym. Sitting down on the couch, nice and cozy with a movie on sounded much more appealing. But again...my passion, my focus...it goes so much deeper and so, yes...i went outside and trained instead. Scott is going to die any day but he keeps pushing because he has passionate goals. He doesn't want to give up because his heart is too big to "let go". Amazing the courage he displays. I realized, after being at the fundraiser tonight, that my broken finger...it's no big deal. I just need to be careful that i don't bump it too hard. There are people out there with much more sevear injuries and illnesses...i really don't need to complain about my little injury.

It's courage, strength, focus. It's passion, indurance, and heart. These are gifts that have been given to us. These are gifts that can carry us through anything. We just need to keep our eyes on where these gifts came from in order for us to understand them and apply them properly.

the end and the new

2008-11-08T07:55:00.000-08:00

A couple of days ago, a few of my friends and i went out climbing. Something i learned was that just because the sun was "kinda out", didn't mean that it was going to be warm...at all. In fact it snowed. However we pushed on. It was actually a pretty good day. As an end of season type of day, i'm happy with my performance. I started working on a new project...kinda silly as it was the last day, but i'm hoping to get one more break in the weather so that i can get out there and finish it.

Thinking about Ouray Ice Festival a lot. There's a bit more pressure this year as my sponsors are hoping that i'll do well. I guess so am i. I've been training a tone more than i ever have, climbing harder than i ever have...you'd think results this year would be better. I guess we'll see.

Today's a day off. Gonna hang out with girls, relax, and let my body recover from a hard week. Tomorrow, back at 'er though. The new gym has been amazing. To be able to go out in the rain...and still climb...can't beat it. Although it's still not all that appealing to be outside in the damp, rainy weather. However, i'm learning, still, that if you want it, nothing should stop you...you just need to dig deep. Always.

Getting Cold

2008-11-05T21:55:00.000-08:00

It's getting cold outside. Ice is forming. My mindset is beginning to change, and I'm getting super stoked. Beat my record with continuous climbing tonight. 34 minutes this time. My goal for 40 minutes of constant moving is getting closer. It's crazy to how motivated I'm feeling right now. Whether the gym, climbing outside in the cold in my climbing gym, cardio...all of it...I'm into it.

Ouray ice festival is just over two months away now. I'm pushing hard. I need to stay focused. Focuson my own training, my style, my methods...not worrying about others doing the same. The more you focus on your fellow competitors, the more you lose sight of yourself. Stay calm, stay yourself, stick to the plan.

I'm hoping to get on some ice pretty quick here...put all this training to the test. Shouldn't be too long now.

I'm feeling good, feeling super stoked, and feeling a heck of a lot better than last year.

Ups and downs

2008-11-01T20:59:00.000-07:00

So the past week has been a tough one. Being sick is never easy. No matter what, you just want to keep going...so i tried...and well...my body told me otherwise. I tried to go climbing and the entire time i was flailing all over the place. It was retarded. So after that ridiculous attempt, i decided to call 'er quits for a couple of days...to let my body rest and heal. Yesterday i went on this super long hike in search of the mother ship of all ice climbs. After summiting a mountain we found the ice climb that was in early stages of formation. If there is a way to find a somewhat realistic approach...this could be quite the spectacle. We'll see i guess when snow flies.

Today was a better day at a crag. Got on some 12's and a 13. Got worked which was good. Now i have a couple of new projects. Tonight i finished off my day by sessioning my gym for a couple of hours. It was good. Full day of arm work out, still can feel them. Good thing. Tomorrow is going to be a rest day and then full on come monday.

It's interesting, the mental side of climbing. You're always battling some sort of nemesis within. There's always going to be "that voice" in your head that's telling you that you can't do something. I've begun to learn that no matter what, even you really can't do something, you still need to push and go for it. Whether you're long ago out of strength, but there's still one more hold left to reach for...you still have to try. Even if you rip off at the slight hint of going for that next/last hold...at least you went for it. Moral of the story...don't give up...no matter what. You'll never really know whether or not you could have kept going...until you try to keep going.

Pumped

2008-10-25T21:23:00.001-07:00

So, I'm super pumped...as are my arms...infact, at the moment I'm having difficulty typing as I can't feel my arms. I was training in the gym (in the backyard) tonight, feeling lazy...tired...would have rather watched a movie with my wife...but anyways, so training in the gym...all of a sudden i felt like pushing...real hard. My goal was to last 30 mins of continuous movement by the end of November...well, I stomped it tonight, Oct. 25th. I'm a month ahead of time. I thought it was going to take a lot longer, but i found that by focusing I was able to keep moving. I feel progression, I feel stronger. But now, what I must realize is that I need to start focusing on my weaknesses. I have to be a well rounded climber, not just strong in one area.

I think I'm actually starting to like training, most likely because I feel that I'm moving ahead. A goal for me is to "compete" this year at Ouray Ice Festival. Ouray is a festival where most of the best of the best come from all over the world and prove why "they're" the strongest. I'd like to show the Euro's why Canadians are stronger. Yeah! I have two months before Ouray. I need to keep pushing if I'm going to "compete". I need to stay focused.

My fingers hurt. The skin on my hands is hating me. My shoulders are numb. It's cold outside. But it doesn't matter. Because I love climbing.

it's a process

2008-10-23T08:40:00.000-07:00

I'm full on into training for mixed and ice climbing now. Every day is a defining moment to whether or not i "want it". Staying consistent with training takes so much dedication. I'm willing, but it pushes me. Last night in the climbing gym i lasted 19 minutes (with my ice tools) on inverted walls and horizontal roofs, consistently moving. I'm stoked. I couldn't feel my arms afterwards but that's a good thing. A week earlier it was a push to stay on for 17mins with continuous movement, however now, i think i'll be able to make my goal of 30mins. I also, last night in the gym, tried using a space heater ('cause it's flippin' cold out now at night), but it just about burnt the whole gym down...so...we won't be trying that again.

Today is strength training day and gym night again tonight. Arms hurt, but i love it.

A summer of growth

2008-10-20T17:46:00.000-07:00

This summer has been a learning curve on all fronts. After many months of rock climbing, pushing hard, hurting, and then pushing further...the season has come to an end with confidence building. My goals for rock were to be climbing at a higher level then ever before. I got there and am totally stoked. Some projects i stomped on and some, of course, kicked my ass! I love it.

Learning about training, the dedication it takes, the focus it involves...i don't think i've ever been this motivated. All i want to do is train harder and climb stronger. I've begun to realize how deep it really goes in order to climb harder and stronger. You can't just will your way into being a strong climber. You need to be constantly thinking it, moving it, and doing it. What a feeling!

Over the summer i worked on my masterpiece (which was only supposed to take 1 month). I build my new climbing facility in the backyard. It took me 5 months. Wow, my wife was really "impressed". Um no. In the end though, my new training ground is amazing. I'm out there almost every day pulling down on it. As i have said before, when in doubt...build your own.

Recently i experienced something very foreign to me. A good friend of mind, and a solid climber, passed away. He fell whilst lowering off a mountain. Something went wrong. There has been no solid conclusion to how or what went wrong, however perhaps that's how it should be. The mountains are safe and unsafe. I guess it just depends on the "greater plan". I will miss my friend Anton and his encouragement, his strength and sense of humor. I had a hard time dealing with his death. Hearing about your friend dying whilst climbing, it isn't easy being a climber myself. My head space seems to be coming back, but it's taking time. But, time i have.

The days are now getting colder. The brisk air foreshadows the ice that is coming. Infact, ice is already taking shape in the canmore/banff/louise area. I've begun my training for ice and mixed. It's an intense program, but i'm keen to stick with it. I've come to a place where my focus is dedicated and locked in. A friend of mine has been good to get me on the right track with what works best for training...so...i'm stoked. My program basically consists of four days a week at the gym and three days a week of climbing (backyard and "out there") with one day of rest. Ahhhh fridays. I love fridays (now).

I'm super pumped for the season of ice and mixed. I'm pumped about competing.

Never stop doing whatever it is you love doing.

The difference

2008-05-10T10:19:00.000-07:00

Is there a difference? Yes. As climbing has become an uncontrollable passion in my life...i've noticed a difference. The way i eat, think, train...everything has become different. As I've noticed lately, within this "different" train of thought, many decisions have been put on my plate. What i have pondered most: the difference between being a full blown professional climber, or climbing as much as humanly possible without sacrificing "all of it". Speaking with a friend of mine, who is a "full blown professional" athlete...it was really encouraging for him to stress on how important family life is. Throughout the "professional" athlete world of climbing, it seems that time and time again I'm hearing about all the divorces, lack of family time, "i rarely see my kids", those sorts of things. I've decided, even with how driven i've become to succeed at being a "solid" climber, nothing is more important to me than God and my family. There's no doubt that i face challenging thoughts of "going for it". But what does "go for it mean"? Being payed to climb, free gear, and lots of traveling. Or does going for it mean–climbing your butt off, pulling as hard as you possibly can whenever you get to a climb. I've begun to realize that being a top climber doesn't have to be about fame and fortune, however quite possibly just committing to the actual sport, the joy of being out there, all the while cranking to your fullest ability and then some. The feeling of being on a climb, being totally stoked that you're up there, exposed to the elements, tested by your every nerve. Looking up, and "going for it". That's what it's really about. That's, in my opinion, of what "going for it" really means.

At nights end

2008-03-13T10:15:00.000-07:00

Located at one of our local ice climbing areas, the Bull River offers some pretty wicked ice and mixed lines. Climbing there throughout this season, i really wanted to capture an original view of this beautiful canyon. After scouting out a few areas and lines, we (myself and a few friends) found the perfect line with such a view that explains in one shot, how beautiful this location really is.

After dangling flood lights from the bridge above, the stage was sent and the lighting was perfect. Naturally, the second i rapped into the canyon to climb the line...it started to poor. We weren't impressed. However, we wanted the shot and nothing was going to stop us from getting it.

Three hours later it was time to get out of the rain. Of course, the photographer (Patrice Halley) got a stellar photo, one in which we had been hopping for.

The Bull River canyon has a lot of potential mixed lines that would challenge the best. That and there are many ice lines that offer super fun routes and challenging moves.

Grabbing the Bull by its horns

2007-02-03T23:05:00.000-08:00

For the past few years, our local venue-the Bull river, hasn't seen a lot of ice. The weather just hasn't been there for us. We would get short little cold snaps followed with too much warmth. Only a couple of climbs would form at most. And the ice...well...it was ok at best. However, this year to our surprise started off with a bang. It got cold super early and hasn't really let up since. Most of the climbs listed in various guide books have formed and are in great shape. But what makes this year interesting and somewhat sad is the destruction of the wooden flume. Now, all in all it makes sense to replace the old with the new. "Removing" the old wooden flume and replacing it with some sort of "non leaky" flume makes all the sense in the world. However our leaky flume provided some classic mixed and ice routes. So i suppose i almost find it ironic that the one year we see great ice formations, we also have lost some great routes provided by the wooden (leaky) flume with it's trickling magic.

What has made this year somewhat good for me is that i have gained a lot of confidence in my
leading. In recent years i have been quite reluctant with leading just because my head wasn't in it. But this year it was all or nothing. And so far...it's been all. A few of the routes down in the canyon of the Bull river have always attracted me but i was never able to act upon it. My lead head wasn't confident enough. Especially when it came to grade 4 routes/sections, i would always back down. But for some reason my confidence level finally perked up.

My partner Rob Veg and I were asked to do a photoshoot for a beauty outdoor clothing line whilst climbing. The company was Loki outerwear. I figured...what better time to lead one of the climbs that had been calling out to me. We all descended into the canyon and crossed some pre-planned, somewhat, sketchy bridges. With the whitewater flowing at a good clip beneath us, crossing these bridges definitely got the blood flowing. After that, the climbing was great. Every moment of it. Just the freedom of going up. The focus on when and where. The placements, the movements. It was sick. When i completed the route, i felt accomplished. I felt ready for the next one.

Rob Veg

Several weeks later, another climbing buddy of mine (Justin Vance) and I decided to go to the Bull river again. This time, it was the bridge route. But here's the thing...the bridge route had changed. Usually, a grade 3 with couple of grade 4 sections. But without our friendly leaky flume...it had become a stiff grade 4. But that didn't matter. I wanted it. In the grand scheme of things...it's not that hard of a climb. It's barely known in the ice climbing world. But it didn't matter. I had been on it several times top roping and thus it was finally time to take off my training wheels.

Naturally my first couple of steps were fumbly and miss-placed. But as i proceeded on i settled down and stormed my way to the top. Letting a big scream of excitement out I had reached the top and another personal goal. I had just lead my first WI4 ice climb. I was so stoked.

I think what has taught me the most this year in ice climbing is that staying calm is the key. If you start to freak out on a pitch you are only making matters harder for yourself. I personally realized that when you're dangling on a pitch of ice...you need to keep going up. If you think you can climb the pitch your on...than climb it. Have the confidence and give 'er. But be safe too though.

The Bull River is a great little venue with some classic mixed and ice routes throughout the canyon. Yes, the old wooden flume that leaked out some great routes is gone; but somehow, some way, water seems to still flow from "somewhere" and seep out the cracks into some beautiful formations.

An epic lays beneath any adventure

2007-01-28T21:37:00.000-08:00

A beautiful sunrise. We only had about an hour before it was really overcast.

HJC rippen around a super cool tree. So much powder.

Hunter soaring through the trees.

Gord Haine rippen through the trees.

HJC gettin' a real taste for the powder after dropping off of a cornice.

An early start to the morning outside the cabin.

Outside our palace for a quick view.

A window of stars with amazing light on the cabin.

Our musical performance before bed by Justin Vance.

A perfect moment to start out our day.

At our whits end all six of us were dehydrated and lacking food in a bad way. We had been going for 12 hrs in hope of being in the right place at the right time. Nothing seemed to be going our way. Just as we were about to give up...He turned up.

Our Jumbo ski trip had been planned for years. It was only this year that we finally brought it together. Gord Haine, Hunter Corrigal, Gordon McArthur, Bill Newsome, Justin Vance, and Scotty Graham, the crew was set.

Getting an early start was the best thing that we could have done. Why you ask? Let's see...we got to the sledding parking lot and went the wrong way for a while. Once we were on the right track, the beater sled (out of the three) decided to call 'er quits right in an avy path. Attempting to take three people per sled roughly 10kms was a slow process. Breaking trail in deep, deep snow, all the while the skins on our skis suffering due to too much snow–leading to skins failing. Having to boot pack up retarded steep terrain. Back tracking so that we didn't have to cross super sketchy avalanche terrain. Searching in the dark for a cabin that was covered under what seemed to be endless powder. Needless to say, our early start was the first of many blessings.

After 12 hrs of traveling we finally found the Jumbo cabin. Our faith was tested. We were pushed beyond our physical limits. We were right where he wanted us to be. Broken.

Naturally, with our time of excitement, (finding the cabin) we decided to celebrate. And what better way to celebrate than with a 4ltr box of wine (compliments of Hunter). Romping around in our long underwear, warm as could be from the roaring fire...we had become kings of the mountain. Nestled in our cabin, that we had to dig down to get to, all six of us were right where we wanted to be. That is until 2:00am in the morning when Gord H. found himself outside with much discomfort (due to the wine and expired backcountry food).

Our weekend was compiled of sick lines, deep snow, great photo opps and amazing company. There were many laughs that will be talked about 'til no end.

Our descent from the cabin gave us an incredible opportunity to ski some epic lines. Remembering where we had come up, we knew that going down would be unbelievable. Besides from having to ski with 60lb packs on, the lines were steep, deep, and wild. The whole way down lead us all with screaming and cheering. Well, except when i skied into a 5ft creek well. I must say, that didn't excite me at all.

What defines a great trip isn't the line you ski, or the jump you hit...it's the fellowship that goes on within the trip. It's the times when someone is last and in distress and a group member goes back down to help. Or when someone's skins fail and one of the guys walks behind him so that he doesn't slip backwards. It's when someone waits until everyone is safe, holding back so that he can observe, making sure that everything and everyone is ok. Or when everyone is tired, a group member takes control and breaks trail, pushing himself so hard...even though he too has nothing left.

A great trip is marked by the ones involved. A great trip is remembered by the community of friends that stuck together. This jumbo trip portrayed more than just skiing. We were blessed with an opportunity to portray His greatness.

When it really counts

2007-01-28T21:32:00.000-08:00

(This is a blurb i wrote to Will Gadd, one of the world's best climbers, in reply to a piece he wrote about religions on his blog)

I'm curious to know what your take is on christianity. Three years ago i became a christian and it has made a monster difference in my life, especially in the adventure sports world. I find myself (these days) relying on God for his direction and guidance.

Just this weekend past some friend of mine and I did a trip up to Jumbo Cabin (sick skiing). Anyways, with any trip there usually lays an epic. OF course we had a few. But within those times of desperosity, a few of us found ourselves praying to God that he would have mercy on us, in essence, guide us out of trouble. Sure enough, at the last second..at our whitts end he came through for us.

The interesting thing is that, more often than not, even those who care not to admit, find themselves asking for Gods help when the rubber hits the road. But you ask that person when things are calm and collective "where is God now", so many times i've heard "oh i don't believe in God".

I guess it's just interesting where peoples' hearts are really at when it really counts.

I have to apologize but reading your blog i just found out about Harry. My heart goes out to his family, and i'm sure the climbers around the kootenay area will be praying for them (his family and friends).

God has a purpose. Sometimes, well actually most times we have no idea what his plan is. Most times, not knowing, a huge ammount of frustration drives us batty, but i know that's where faith comes. "We are to have faith in the things that we can't see, not the things in which we can see" - Jesus.

Faith is so hard to grasp when we don't understand, but i suppose the peace i receive just knowing that God is in control, is enough to understand that his plan is Perfect. And that with anything, good or bad, he will use it for amazing things.

"We should be so one with God that we don't need to ask continually for guidance."
-Oswald Chambers

Christianity is not a religion, it's a relationship.

I know this is a bunch of ranting, but for some reason i felt i should write this.

Look forward to any reply.

Best,

Gordon McArthur

A new addition

2007-01-25T19:13:00.000-08:00

I guess the point of this blog is to do things quickly. To post anything with little stress. Over the past few years i have worked my keaster off on a website called Machavok.com. It was really fun, however, it takes way too much time. Hence the blog morph. So i guess this is the first entry and introduction to machavok in a hurry.

Enjoy.

(feel free to post or comment on whatever you want...with regards to the outdoors that is)