Grabbing the Bull by its horns

For the past few years, our local venue-the Bull river, hasn't seen a lot of ice. The weather just hasn't been there for us. We would get short little cold snaps followed with too much warmth. Only a couple of climbs would form at most. And the ice...well...it was ok at best. However, this year to our surprise started off with a bang. It got cold super early and hasn't really let up since. Most of the climbs listed in various guide books have formed and are in great shape. But what makes this year interesting and somewhat sad is the destruction of the wooden flume. Now, all in all it makes sense to replace the old with the new. "Removing" the old wooden flume and replacing it with some sort of "non leaky" flume makes all the sense in the world. However our leaky flume provided some classic mixed and ice routes. So i suppose i almost find it ironic that the one year we see great ice formations, we also have lost some great routes provided by the wooden (leaky) flume with it's trickling magic.

What has made this year somewhat good for me is that i have gained a lot of confidence in my
leading. In recent years i have been quite reluctant with leading just because my head wasn't in it. But this year it was all or nothing. And so far...it's been all. A few of the routes down in the canyon of the Bull river have always attracted me but i was never able to act upon it. My lead head wasn't confident enough. Especially when it came to grade 4 routes/sections, i would always back down. But for some reason my confidence level finally perked up.


My partner Rob Veg and I were asked to do a photoshoot for a beauty outdoor clothing line whilst climbing. The company was Loki outerwear. I figured...what better time to lead one of the climbs that had been calling out to me. We all descended into the canyon and crossed some pre-planned, somewhat, sketchy bridges. With the whitewater flowing at a good clip beneath us, crossing these bridges definitely got the blood flowing. After that, the climbing was great. Every moment of it. Just the freedom of going up. The focus on when and where. The placements, the movements. It was sick. When i completed the route, i felt accomplished. I felt ready for the next one.

Rob Veg

Several weeks later, another climbing buddy of mine (Justin Vance) and I decided to go to the Bull river again. This time, it was the bridge route. But here's the thing...the bridge route had changed. Usually, a grade 3 with couple of grade 4 sections. But without our friendly leaky flume...it had become a stiff grade 4. But that didn't matter. I wanted it. In the grand scheme of things...it's not that hard of a climb. It's barely known in the ice climbing world. But it didn't matter. I had been on it several times top roping and thus it was finally time to take off my training wheels.

Naturally my first couple of steps were fumbly and miss-placed. But as i proceeded on i settled down and stormed my way to the top. Letting a big scream of excitement out I had reached the top and another personal goal. I had just lead my first WI4 ice climb. I was so stoked.

I think what has taught me the most this year in ice climbing is that staying calm is the key. If you start to freak out on a pitch you are only making matters harder for yourself. I personally realized that when you're dangling on a pitch of ice...you need to keep going up. If you think you can climb the pitch your on...than climb it. Have the confidence and give 'er. But be safe too though.

The Bull River is a great little venue with some classic mixed and ice routes throughout the canyon. Yes, the old wooden flume that leaked out some great routes is gone; but somehow, some way, water seems to still flow from "somewhere" and seep out the cracks into some beautiful formations.