Friday, January 16, 2009

Game Day

Woke up at 3am, thinking that it was go time. I was wrong. Back to sleep. Up at 7-no more sleep for me. My nerves were racing top speed. Because Mark Beverly (my roomate) drew 6th position to go, i told him that i would warm him up. So we headed to last years comp route and did some laps. Both of us were feeling good. A bit of shakiness was haunting the two of us, but by our third lap each..things were settling down.

It's amazing how intense it can get when you're waiting. The waiting game is such a mind bender. It's all you can do to not think about it, yet your entire body consumes the idea of what's about to happen.

After several hours of wandering around it was finally time for me to rap into the canyon for my turn at the 2009 Ouray Ice Festival Competition. At this point i knew that there was no turning back, that now was the time to put all my eggs into one basket. All the training, sessioning (thanks to all who belayed me), all the workouts...everything came down to this.

Tying into the rope...flip that was scarey enough, never mind the gigantic climb that layed ahead. I started up the ice with gitters. I was nervous. We were topped rope by a belayer that awaited our arrival in the cave above. This years route required the competitor to climb up a 60ft pillar of ice. It wasn't hard, but you didn't want to fall off on the ice as that was the easy pary.

Arriving at the cave mid way i was glad to have not fallen. It took me a little longer than usual on the ice, but thats' always the way with me–i'm definitely not a speed ice climber. So the cave, where we started the second section of the climb was intense. You didn't look straight at the rock, you looked above and behind. The cave started you off right away inverted. The rock ran out about 60ft completely upside down. It was so crazy. As i began my journey outwards i moved with precision. Every placement, carefully put in such a way as though i were juggling eggs...with delicacy. What i didn't realize, but later found out about, is that i was climbing fast. Quite fast infact. I was moving quickly with confidence. Clip after clip i was making headway. I knew some of the previous competitors had fallen off before where i was now, so i stoked. But then it happened. What looked like a solid hold turned out to be nothing and i pealed off. Down i went. The second i fell, for a moment i was bumbed...but then realized..i had nothing to be dissapointed about as i had made it quite far...with energy still flowing. I knew that if i had have stayed on...i could have gone way further. That was enough for me.

As i was lowered down, i held my head high as my climb was solid. I learned a lot in that 12 minutes...enough so that going back next year to podium is on the forefront of my climbing goals. Ouray Ice Festival offers an opportunity to grow...to climb hard, and to experience what some dream of. I'm living my dream, climbing amongst the elite. Competing with some of the elite, and keeping up with the elite. I'm stoked. All my training has lead me into a new realm of climbing. I later found out that i had placed 9th. I was really excited about that as my goal was to hit top 10. For next year though, i'll be gunning for a podium spot. Side note: What's funny, with the Ouray ice fest...if you fall off the competition route...they make you climb out this rediculousy long pillar of ice...like i'm talking over 100ft. It's grueling. You don't want to fall off because everyone is still sort of watching. Yikes!

After a chilled day of climbing on the last day, a great dinner with the team, and a long day of traveling home...getting to home base was nice. I learned a tone this year, met some amazing people, Mark, Stephen Koch, Andreas, the Petzl crew, Max Turgeon and Zoe, and many more.

I"ve been resting for the past few days which has been nice. But it's time to get back at 'er. THere's still ice and rock to climb and many lines to send. What a year it's been so far. My goals, now, I think are to start looking at the world cup circuit for next year. If i continue my training, there's a possibility that i might be able to compete at that level. Who knows though, but i'm psyched!

Keep at what you love and keep your eyes focused on what matters. Because at the end of the day, He only wants what's best for us.

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