Gear Review: Petzl Sama Harness

Whether working a route, crushing your redpoint, or trekking high up in the mountains, trusting the gear you use, knowing that it’s going to perform, is essential. “In the moment” you can’t be thinking about whether or not your gear is going to perform. Now, typically it does come down to the magician…not the wand but there are certain factors with gear that simply make particular actions more attainable.

Over the last 10 years of climbing I’ve had the opportunity to sit in a few harnesses. Some have been “kinda” comfortable and some have left my but cheeks as numb as could be. Harnesses, in my opinion, will never be 100% comfortable, I mean, come on…your butt, your nutts, and your legs are all being squeezed simultaneously whilst holding a human in the air. However, to give the industry leaders credit, harnesses have become lighter, more comfortable, and indeed more functional.

For the last several years I’ve become one with the Sama harness from Petzl–so much to the point that sometimes I wear it to bed. For me, it’s the perfect harness for my climbing. Petzl uses perforated foam padding and a mesh lining to evenly distribute pressure, wicking moisture away to make the Harness incredibly breathable and to help you stay comfortable when your sweatin’ your butt off. The elasticized leg loops stay snug to your legs keeping them in place, maintaining comfort after whipping and when your partner is hang-doggin’ , all the while without “getting in the way” if you’re gunning for the chains. The Sama also features pre-formed gear loops to keep your rack organized and within effortless reach.

I find that petzl puts a lot of time into making their gear as safe as possible. The Sama harness gives two examples: the doubleback buckle on the waist belt that provides simple, rapid closure, and redesigning the belay loop to reinforce safety when you tie in, helping users identify proper tie-in / attachment points.

The Petzl Sama harness is light (approx. 14.5 oz. medium), comfortable, and affordable. I use it for sport climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing. I find with the elastisized leg loops, the materials in the waist belt and leg loops - even in winter with multiple layers on my legs, the harness adjusts to the fit I need without becoming sloppy or uncomfortable and drys fast if saturated by wet ice climbs. The durability of the harness has held up through the toughness of winter conditions and the hardiness of cragging in the likes of deserts and forested sub alpine environments.

Obviously every harness (I would think) is approved by the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme, English: International Mountaineering and Climbing Organisation), so they’re all “safe” (I use that term lightly). It really comes down to what you see as functionality specific to your needs/budget/etc. The Petzl Sama harness has grown on me, and through this “relationship” I’ve gained a level of trust that allows me to climb without worrying about what’s holding me to the rope. It’s important to trust the gear you use. It’s also important to understand how your gear performs as well as its level of safety (even when it’s brand new, and especially after a period of time with usage).