It's important to keep a positive perspective...

This time around, I found a sense of comfort. Coming back to Saas Fee, Switzerland allowed for some breathing room. I knew this place, I’d been here before, and my comfort level was far greater this time.

Last year in Saas Fee, Switzerland I competed in my first ever World Cup Ice climbing competition. It was scary to say the least. I didn’t know how/what to prepare whether with the travel side of things or even the climbing side of things. This realm that I put myself in, I was just a baby…that had just been born into a very different world.

Marc Beverly and I, by this time, had traveled around the world together. It’s amazing how much easier travel can be when you’re doing it with someone you know. Cheers to that Marc. After driving for several hours from Chamonix, France we arrived (back) in Saas Fee, Switzerland. It was the last stop on our World Cup tour. Upon my arrival last year I was really unsettled and nervous…but not this year, this year was different. It was a familiar place to which, this time around, I knew how and what to prepare for.

Athletes that travel on the world cup circuit form a very unique bond. Despite the fact that it resembles what one might call, “A traveling circus”, there’s a definite connection. It’s been great, on this tour, being accepted into the family of “carnies”, as it certainly took the edge off in a place that I’m still very new at.
The athlete dinners, the pre-game shows if you will, are always fun to be a part of. You get to see friends, meet other athletes from around the world, discuss “future climbing plans”, and even pick up where you last left off in an ongoing “world cup tour ping pong game” (thanks to my good, Russian, friend–Pavel). It’s a time for all the athletes and organizers to enjoy a relaxed and calm evening “before the storm”. But despite all efforts made for a peaceful, composed, evening…everyone knows what lays ahead–Game Day.

Entering into isolation, along with all the other athletes, there was a sense of relief. Last year isolation was a dark, somewhat heated tent. This year, the organizers built a loft with shelves for gear and beds to chill out on. There was heat, food, water, and lots of RedBull. This definitely took the edge off.
In pretty much every event I’ve competed in, whenever there’s a draw for numbers (when your turn is to compete), it seems as though I always end up going near the bottom. Some people don’t mind this…and really…I guess it’s not all that bad…but when you’re stuck in isolation for 5hrs…it can certainly suck. At the athlete dinner this year I prayed that I would not draw a number that put me near the bottom. Well…to my shock…when I drew my number this year I drew 3. I couldn’t believe it. Prayer answered! Other athletes looked at me as though I were crazy, “you’re happy with going that early?” Heck yeah I was. I couldn’t believe it. No waiting, not panic attacks…out of the gates early. I was really stoked about this.

Being lead from isolation to where the climbing structure is, it feels like a lamb being lead to the slaughterhouse. It pretty much took every bit of mental toughness I had stored up to stay focused on this, what seemed like a 10 mile walk to the climb. As I sat on the seat, just around the corner from the main event, hearing all the cheering, hundreds of people projecting their enthusiasm…I awaited my name to be called into action.

As I lifted both feet off the ground, beginning my climb, the clock started to tick. Placing my tools as efficiently as possible, focusing on moving fast, but being concise with my placements, I pulled through the first few moves. Suddenly, it happened again. My tool popped. I couldn’t believe it. I was only 10ft off the ground. Noooooooo! Quickly I realized that it wasn’t over yet. If you fall before the first quick draw you’re allowed a second chance. The belayer fished my tool out of the ice above and so without a second thought I “got back on the horse”.
Move after move my climbing was flowing. There wasn’t much struggle at all with any of the sequences and I was climbing at a descent clip. Abruptly my name was called as time had run out. Once again it was over. As I was being lowered down I was confused to where I had made it on the route, and why it took me so long to get there, “Really, it took me 6 minutes to make it there?” It didn’t make a lot of sense. I felt as though I was moving faster (this year). I even watched several climbers after me, to whom looked a lot slower, yet still reaching the same point.

It wasn’t until about an hour later that it was brought to my attention that when you fall, and are rewarded a second attempt (like in my situation), the clock doesn’t stop. You see, I thought the clock was re-set back to 6 minutes but it wasn’t. I had actually exhausted two minutes out of my 6 in my first attempt at the route. At that moment I actually became pretty excited. I had just realized that it only took me 4 minutes to climb through ¾’s of the route. If I had my full 6 minutes, I would have had enough time to top out the route. This put a smile on my face.

Last year, at this world cup, I climbed at a very slow pace. It wasn’t good. Because the structure was pretty much the same this year, I was able to compare this year’s climb to last year’s (with speed, distance on route, etc.). Last year I made it just over half way…in 6 minutes. This year, I fell off the route early, re-composed myself and jumped back on my horse and road faster then I ever have before. Not only did I surpass how far I climbed last year, but I did it with (what could have been) 2 minutes to spare.

No, I didn’t go as far as I had wanted/expected to in the standings of this world cup, however still, much has been gained this time around. My goals for this year were to climb faster and stronger. Both of those goals were accomplished. That’s a gain. There is still much for me to learn in this realm, and I still need a lot of mileage in certain areas, but as “Rocky” put it, “it’s not about how hard you can punch…but how hard of a punch you can take…and still get back up.” (paraphrased).
This isn’t over yet. Game on.