And so it begins

Sitting in the airport at 4:30am I find myself in a familiar place. Get to the hotel the night before, lay on the bed and watch tv, get up at some ridiculous hour for taxi ride to the airport, get a starbucks protein shake, wait for flight to Ouray, Co. I’ve been here before. However this time, something feels a little different.

For the past several months I’ve been focusing a lot on my training for a specific purpose. My climbing has been narrowed down to “mixed climbing” only. The reason for this: to be “strong enough to compete” at Ouray Colorado’s Annual Ice Festival. Previous to this year I’ve competed in this event and seen substantial growth. Each year I’ve progressed but still, deep down, lacked what it took to really “compete”.

Having a sense of direction, in my opinion, has made all the difference in my climbing/training. Having someone yell at you from below, “don’t even think about giving up here, and don’t think about resting, keep moving….” It helps, it really really helps. Mental toughness, as I’ve learned a ton about this year, allows you to step out of your “comfort zone” and really go for it. It allows you to focus all your energy on the moment that matters. You cross over a threshold where it doesn’t hurt anymore, where you can hang on longer, where you can be way above your last piece of protection and be ok with it.

My training has changed this year. It’s gone deeper and it’s become harder. I’ve learned what “real training” is, as opposed to what I thought it was. Not over training, but training right, focusing on my weaknesses, allowing for constructive criticism, putting in actual dedicated hours in training sessions, focusing specifically on training exercises, and of course-pushing past what my mind thinks is the “end”. Again, having someone to work with me on this has proven beneficial. Someone with a lot more experience then me, someone to critique, yell, heckle, laugh with…all of these things has opened a new door. This door that I’ve gone through has changed my training and climbing in such a way that all of a sudden…there seems to be a little more confidence this year. For the first time, sitting in this place, on my way to Ouray, I feel a sense of readiness…peace if you will.

For 6 days, prior to today, I was super ill. My stomach was a battlefield for the good, the bad, and the ugly. It was full on and I was not stoked. Of course, my mental state was being tried as Ouray was just around the corner. My energy level was lowering rapidly naturally leaving me in a bit of a worried state. Docs were telling me, “oh, you might not get rid of this for a few weeks.” Well that just wasn’t going to work for me. Next best thing–Pray. We’re just about 100% again.

I think because of my mental state this year, it’s allowed me to really enjoy the fact that I get to go to Ouray again, hang out with friends that I’ve met over the years, looking forward to climbing hard, and just having a super good ol’ time. There seems to be a lot of people stoked this year for the festival. There’s lots of cool things going on, like Will Gadd’s “Endless Ascent” (where he’s going to climb for 24hrs raising money for the dZi foundation), great speakers are putting on slideshows, and of course the hype of Vince Anderson’s comp route for this year. And I must not forget about the fact that my Dad is traveling from Ontario to watch me compete. That’s super cool as it will be the first time that any of my family has seen me climb/compete.

I’m so psyched. I feel ready, mentally and physically. I’m grateful for those who have helped with my climbing/training and for those who have given me amazing support along the way (Will Gadd, my wonderful Wife Becky and kids Kayla and Malayah, friends, climbing partners, sponsors). Train like you compete, compete like you train (WG).

I’m going to be writing day-to-day updates on what’s going on at the Ouray Ice Festival…so stay tuned.

More to come.�