My last entry was written right before I arrived in Ouray, Co. From then until now, a lot has happened, so bare with me as there’s a few things to talk about.
When I arrived in Ouray, I was totally psyched–a little nervous, yet fired up and ready to give ‘er. I was excited because this year was different. Finally, this time, I felt that I was actually prepared; strong enough to compete at the Ouray ice festival. I had actually put the time in, getting my body ready, to be fit and strong enough to actually compete.
My first day in Ouray, I ended up going to the cave just outside of town with some friends for a session on steeper terrain. Naturally I was huffing and puffing my way through the climbs as the altitude (8500ft) was kicking my butt. It was a little deterring, as I wasn’t climbing very well, however I soon realized it wasn’t due to my lack of strength or whatever, but more so to do with the altitude. Phew, I had an excuse.
Day 2: Much better outing. I hooked up with Will Mayo and we crushed all day long. Onsighting/Flashing everything I got on, Will redpointing everything he got on. I felt as though nothing could stop us. Steep, long, short, run out…whatever…we were climbing machines this day. Good day.
Day 3: Rest day. Did nothing. Really relaxing. After waking up and crawling out of the closet I was “living” in I had a late breakfast, lazed around for a bit, did some work, then went for a late afternoon stroll up to the park and back.
Day 4: Ended up hooking up with Will Gadd, doing some ice laps with him and some friends. It was nice to get on some ice as the comp route had a lot of ice on it. Will got me on a route with some super thing ice and uncharted rock, which was good as, again, the comp route was kinda similar. Productive day. Felt really fit and strong.
Day 5: Rest day. Again, relaxing, didn’t do much other then takin’ it easy.
Day 6: Rest day again. Went for a walk down into the ice park…talked with some friends, then headed back home. Not much more happened this day. Caught a couple of slide shows in the evening. Super funny, great pics, amazing people.
Day 7: Once again, rest day. Did some walking, relaxed in hotel. Then, mid day, went and picked my dad up from the airport. Was totally psyched about this as I hadn’t seen my dad in some time. Friday night we went to the silent auction, ate some food, hung out with my buddy Stephen Koch, then went home, watched movies in the hotel.
Day 8: Game time. Stressful day. My turn to go in the comp was 3rd from last. Didn’t handle this very well, as I wasn’t relaxed at all leading up to the climb. During the climb, I was rushing myself/movements, not thinking clearly and ended up falling off. Why? Lack of experience in competing. I was strong enough…for sure…but just not smart enough. I was pissed off.
Day 9: Taugh clinics all day which I loved. I love teaching. In the morning I taught advanced ice and in the afternoon I taught advanced mixed. Great times. I also got to watch Will finish his “endless ascent” at high noon. Very inspiring.
Day 10: Went home.
What I learned: “A measure of a man’s greatness is not measured by how he reacts when he wins, but how he reacts when he loses.” That’s what my coach told me at 2am in the morning when I was belaying him on his “endless ascent”. This loss was tough. I was strong enough this time. I had the skills to do well, really well. But what I lacked was the mental experience in competition climbing. I’ve tasted both ends of the spectrum now. And after realizing that I’m not the only one that has experienced this type of defeat, I got over it and begun to transfer this negative energy towards the thought of being motivated to go deeper, try harder, commit further. It’s a humbling experience, however in this type of time, it’s what you do with it that makes the difference. Talking with my coach about it, having his reassurance that I was strong enough, it was good to hear that and good to realized my revealed weakness. I know what I have to work on. Maybe that was the point of this comp…to learn of my weaknesses. It’s easy to train what you’re good at…but it’s what you’re not good at that proves to be the real challenge.
Ouray this year was really fun. I got to know a lot of super rad people, climb with amazing climbers, and experience true inspiration by watching Will climb for 24hrs straight. Life of a climber is no easy path to take, especially when searching to go deeper. Life of a competition climber demands a lot. Anyone can be strong, but strong enough physically and mentally, so much to handle such a path…now that takes real effort and commitment. But I’m psyched. I feel challenged, and I also feel motivated. I just want to go back and win now. It’s back to the drawing board but that’s ok…’cause I love learning.
I want to give a shout out to Will for going beyond what was thought to be possible…again. After doing my “belay shift” at 2 in the morning, going home, going to bed, then coming back again in the morning, many hours later…seeing him still climbing…it inspires me…a lot. Thank you sir for coaching me, encouraging me, and inspiring me. I look forward to more.
Climbing isn’t always about winning, or standing on the top. Sometimes it takes a fall, or a loss, to make you stronger, better, smarter. Sometimes you need to fall to understand how to “stand back up”. I read this verse the day after the comp…it helped:
“Though a righteous man falls seven times, he will get up, but the weak will stumble into ruin.” Proverbs 24:16. When you fall, are you going to stay down, or are you going to get back up and give it another go?
I’m back home now, with my amazing family. However, I’m out again in five days, leaving for the world cup–a competition, again, at an entirely new level. Game on.
By the way, thanks to Mark Allen and Chris Wright for letting me stay in their closet. You guys rock! And thanks to everyone who lent encouraging words after I fell during the comp. Sponsors–wouldn’t be where I am right now without you.
Thank you.
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